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CANTON, OHIO: 

BASCOM <fc SAXTON, PEINTEEf 
1875. 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by Hugo Preyer, 
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 






X 



INTRODUCTORY. 




HERE are a good many books and periodicals published 
on the subject of Grape and Small Fruit Growing. But 
since it is apparent that those books are generally too sci- 
entific, or too circumstantial as to be easily understood by 
illiterate men, or are mere literate productions without that solid 
foundation of practice which can only be laid by experienced grow- 
ers, they are of but little use at a moments notice ; and since those 
periodicals according to their nature needs must treat the subject 
in a scattering way, the grape and small fruit grower who had little 
or no opportunity to go through a course of scientific training, is 
nine times out of ten at a loss as far as reliable advice is concerned. 
This being apparent, I conceived the idea of supplying a practical 
guide which would condense the broadcast materials down to a few 
simple principles and recipts couched in simple language, and void 
of all learned generalities, ^hus placing the subject upon the sound 
basis of practical experience, planked together with the platform of 
popular science. For experience, I claim the authority of ten years 
observation and practice on J. P. Preyer's 131 acre Lake view 
Wine Farm, East Cleveland, Ohio, widely known in this and ad- 
joining States. 

In conclusion, I would simply say that this little practical essay 
is principally designed for farmers and small land owners' family 
use. 

HUGO C. PREYER. 



Part I. 



GRAPE CULTURE 




PREFACE. 

HERE are a good many farmers and small land owners 
jjjf who are of the opinion that a soil especially fit for grape 



growing is required from the commencement. This is erro 
neous. Every dryish soil that will grow good corn, or pota- 
toes, is good enough. Vines are to be cultivated with success 
throughout the entire Indian corn-growing region, on the heaviest 
soils and in the lightest gravel, on the rocky hill-sides of New Eng- 
land and in the alluvial bottom lands of the West, from Maine to 
California 

In every one of the five principal grape-growing regions of the 
Union, namely, the Ohio Valley (Cincinnati), Lake Shore (Lake 
Erie), Pleasant Valley (New York), Hermann (Missouri), and Cal- 
ifornia regions, six years vine culture has not very seldom enhanced 
the value and price of ordinary farm land from $50 to $500 per 
acre, but it has never lessened its worthiness and market price. 

Vineyards are foremost in the class of improved lands, and 
their superiority, as far as rentability is concerned, cannot be 
doubted. 

In this respect, I would say, like the author of "My Vineyard at 
Lake view," (New York, 1866, Orange Judd & Co.), to every one 
who is the owner of a farm, or even of a garden of the smallest 
dimensions : "Try a few vines ; the task may lead to more success- 
ful results than you have any conception of." And why ? There 
is no plant in existence like the grapevine to adapt itself so well to 
all sorts of localities, even to such as where fruit-trees, flowers, corn, 
potatoes, etc., find no foothold. The principles of its cultivation 
are plain and very easily practiced, and there is indeed no difficulty 
hidden under the surface of any vine-growing soil. A little care, a 
little labor, — much pleasure, and little disappointment. That's all. 



6 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Vines with, and grapes in, full foliage are ornaments to gardens 
and improvements to fields ; they yield rich harvests besides. A 
fine grape upon the table is no less an ornament than a tasteful 
delicacy. The wine manufacturing process does not involve any 
sorcery at all, and the access to market is nowadays easy, both for 
grape and wine. 

Therefore I cannot help repeating those golden words, "try a 
few vines." 



I. Groups and Varieties of the Grapevine. 

» 

I do not propose to write a treatise on foreign vines proper, nor 
do I expect to give a description of every American native at pres- 
ent under culture in our vineyards, but it is my design to confine 
myself to about twenty principal varieties which present themselves 
in five groups to the eye of a man not much versed in botany, viz : 
The Isabella, Catawba, Delaware and Southern Groups, and finally 
the European Crosslings. 

A. The Isabella Group. 

1. The Isabella, the oldest and one of the most popular of the 
natives, was introduced in 1825, by a South Carolinian, and still in 
1851 this grape and the Catawba outshone all other varieties in the 
Northern States. Large conic bunches ; large oval berries which 
blacken early to a dark purple color, but ripen slowly ; thick foxy 
skin ; neither tough nor sweet at the center ; feeble flavor and spirit ; 
lack of saccharine. The berries drop badly in the cold. Being three- 
quarters ripe, they are better gathered, for when, at that time, the 
toughness at the center ceases, its acid mingles with their sweetness, 
and decay sets in, killing their vinous life. Thin papery leaves. This 
vine can stand ordinary winters, but not so well the sudden changes 
summer. Ripe from October 1st. Good marketable table-grape ; 
no wine-grape ; the most excellent grape for preserves because of 
its freshness and undeveloped saccharine in its skin ; most recom- 
mendable for family use. 

Remark — Train the Isabella on trellises, if you want to pre- 
vent its bad dropping, and reach the utmost development of the 
saccharine in its skin. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE 7 

2. The Concord is a vigorous and healthy grower, very seldom 
subject to diseases, and therefore most generally planted. Large 
purpleish black berries with white bloom which are surpassed in 
hardiness only by the Delaware ; the center remains unripe and 
acid ; the skin is thick and foxy, and the buttery flesh contains lit- 
tle sugar and spirit. The grapes become the better the older the 
vine grows. The leaves are enduring and rusty on their under 
side. Ripe from September 15. As a table grape, the Concord is a 
favorite. General James G. Negley calls it "the best market vari- 
ety where it .succeeds well," as with I. Knox in Pittsburgh, Penna. 
Concord wine will probably supplant Bordeaux, the straw-ripe, 
raisin-like grapes beiug best fitted for manufacturing (light) wine. 
Some years ago the missionaries considered it the most profitable 
wine-grape. Concord grapes are finally very good for preserves. 

3. The hraella, under culture since 1850, called the American 
Hamburg, is one of the earliest. Large shouldered branches, with 
oblong black berries, which are hardy, sweet and rich, and, adhering 
firmly to their peduncles, can stand frost. The grape contains no 
toughness at the center, is thoroughly sweet and fleshy, and not sub- 
ject to rot. Its strong foliage is exempt from mildew. Ripe from 
August 20. Excellent table grape, next to the Eumelan the best 
black one, and fit for making raisins. 

4. The Rebecca, introduced by E. M. Peake, of Hudson, N. Y., 
prior to 1857, is not so vigorous as the Isabella, but neither disposed 
to mildew, and looks like a foreign grape. Cylindric bunches of 
four inches in length and two inches in diameter ; round, translu- 
cent berries of medium size, with sweet, juicy flesh and a pure per- 
fume ; their color is light green in the shade, and golden or auburn 
in the sun, covered with a light bloom ; they adhere well to the 
bunches and keep sound, but don't contain much of vinous spirit. 
The leaves fall before the maturity of the wood and fruit. Ripe 
from September 20. Pleasant table grape. 

5. The Union Village, introduced by the Shakers of Union 
Village, near Cincinnati, Ohio, is the very giant among the grapes, 
and the most showy exhibition berry, twice as large as the Isabella, 
and of the same quality. Vine foliage, and berries of a very large 
size ; single bunches often weigh over two pounds. The berries are 
black, and their bloom is of a lighter color. It is immensely pro- 
ductive, but over-bearing will kill it in winter next, and young vines 



8 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

suffer from the severity of northern winters. Stopping shoots prior 
to September is necessary. There are a great many spurious vari- 
eties, and the true one is very scarce. Ripe from October 1. Being 
tender to the center and of so huge, I might say, California size, it 
is a good ornamental table grape. 

6. The Adirondac, formerly found wild on the shores of Lake 
Champlain, near Port Henry, and introduced by I. W. Bailey, of 
Plattsburgh, N. Y., is one of the earliest, but requires warmth and 
shelter. Its large, black grape hangs long in large bunches on 
peduncles, is Ion and round, has a thin skin and delicate flavor ; 
contains a melting juice and no acidity or toughness at the cen- 
ter, but not much of sugar either, and is as hardy as the Isabella. 
Its Isabella-like foliage is not enduring, but withstands mildew, rot 
and sun-scald well. It commences to ripen with a reddish trans- 
parency, equals the Black Hamburg, and is said to come nearest 
to a foreign grape. Recommendable for the Northern States and 
both Canadas. Ripe from August 15. Good table grape ; as a 
wine grape some say it equals the Catawba, and is 25 per cent, bet- 
ter than the Diana. 

7. The Martha or White Concord, introduced as a seedling of 
the Concord by Samuel Miller, of Lebanon, Pa., is called by the 
horticulturalist G. Husmann, of Hermann, Missouri, the most prom- 
ising of all new varieties, and indeed one of the three best white 
grapes. Pale yellow berries with a golden tint, and but a little 
smaller than its parent, whose foliage is less enduring, however. 
The plant is hardy, healthy and vigorous, and its compact and 
heavy shouldered bunches are of medium size. Ripe from Septem- 
ber 10, or some days earlier than the Concord. Very good wine 
and table grape. 

8. The Creveling, the best flavored of the hardy early varieties, 
is one of the earliest of the group and superior to the Isabella. Its 
large, but straggling and ugly looking bunches, bear large, round, 
black berries, with a purple bloom, the flesh of which is tender and 
very sweet. Moderately productive. Ripe from September 10. 
Very good table grape. 

9. The Cuyahoga, introduced by Mrs. Wemple, of Collamer, 
near Cleveland, O., bears large, translucent greenish- white berries, 
which are very vinous, tender, jujcy, and without any toughness at 
the center. Medium-sized, compact bunches. Its leaves are not 
hardy. Ripe from October 1, and are a good table grape. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 9 

B. The Catawba Group. 

1. The Catawba is of Southern origin, and was introduced by 
Major Adlum, of Washington, D. C, in 1845. Being a principal 
variety, it is mostly planted in the Lake Erie region, together with 
the Isabella ; in the Ohio Valley, or Cincinnati region, it has re- 
markably failed from disease, and at Hermann, Mo., it has been 
superseded by other vines. In most northern climates it is subject 
to rot, but not in the Lake Erie region ; frost sometimes is injuri- 
ous. Large, compact, branched or double-shouldered bunches. Its 
round berries are at first coppery red and veined with violet, but 
become, when ripe, of a dark purple color and translucent ; they 
are tough at the center, and contain much tannic acid in their juice, 
whence their eminent fitness for wine manufacture. Its peduncles 
are strong, and the berries adhere well to them. Ripe from Octo- 
ber 1. Principal wine grape ; berries a little dried up, and cut 
when the peduncles commence to turn quite brown, are best for this 
purpose ; twelve pounds of Catawba grapes furnish one gallon of 
good wine ; the best marketable table grape for export; not fit for 
making raisins. 

2. The Diana, introduced by Mrs. Diana Crehore, of Milton 
Hill, near Boston, Mass., in 1845, reaches, after eight years' growth, 
its full degree of perfectness, and is the improved Catawba, being 
two weeks earlier, richer, purer and more spirited. Its Catawba 
colored and sized berries are spicy, aromatic, of honey sweetness, 
hardy and only surpassed by the Delaware and Iona, their little 
wine manufacturing qualities notwithstanding. When young, the 
Dianas are disposed to over production which can be prevented by 
not crowding them, and stopping their shoots toward the last of 
August ; they can stand severe frost, without being damaged ; late 
keeper; ripe from September 10. Not much of a wine grape; it 
gives, mixed with the Delaware, a good wine though ; excellent 
table grape ; well boxed, it remains fresh until April. Excellent 
for raisins, because of its aromatic freshness. 

The introduction of the Diana was the first step in the direction 
of improved grape culture. 

3. The Anna, one of the best three white grapes, is not 
surpassed in purity, richness, vinity and vigor, by any hardy grape 
It was introduced by Eli Hasbrouch, of Newburgh, Orange County, 



10 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

N. Y. Its leaves are freshy and not subject to mildew ; early in> 
the season they bear yellow marks ; large, round berries, well ad- 
hered to their peduncles, but a trifle subject to rot, with a very little 
toughness and no acidity at the center ; of a light amber in the 
sun, and pearly white or green in the shade, and of the highest 
flavor, sweetness and spirit. The grapes bear a white bloom with a 
few intermingled brown dots on their pretty, thin epidermis (skin), 
and ought to remain hanging long on the vines, since they are never 
injured by frost. Kipe from October 1 ; excellent table grape ; 
most recommendable for raisins ; may be mixed with other grapes 
for wine making purposes. A real benefit to sick persons, it being 
the most salubrious among the grapes known as yet. 

4. The Iona, an offspring of the Diana, was introduced in 1857 
by Dr. C. W. Grant, of" Iona Island, Westchester County, N. Y , 
and received the Greeley prize of $100, in 1864. It ripens farther 
North than the Concord ; it grows, like the Delaware, in any lati- 
tude, but is, for instance, at Augusta, Ga., only two months for use, 
while it lasts six and seven months in the northern and central re- 
gions, and finally almost sides with the Delaware as a table and 
raisin grape, at the same time being the fleshiest of all American 
grapes. Double-shouldered, or winged large bunches ; hard wood ; 
the rich, fleshy and enduring foliage remains until the fruit is fully 
ripened. A late keeper, and very productive; no rot; large, crim- 
son berries with violet veins, transparent from their first setting ; 
melting flesh, tender to the very center and not losing its vinous 
spirit and muscatel aroma, even in winter. Ripe from September 
20 ; not very much of a wine grape, but next to the Delaware, Her- 
bemont, and a few others, the most excellent table grape ; affords 
also the enjoyment of most spirited and delicious raisins. 

5. The Eumelan, a new variety, will probably supersede the 
Isabella, which was ere this the best black table grape, and is re- 
commendable to the horticulturist. Only one strong cane should be 
allowed to grow. Large and compact bunches ; large black berries 
with fine bloom, pure flavor and tender, melting flesh, the juice of 
which is wine-like when thoroughly ripe ; the berries adhere firmly 
to their peduncles, because the plant is perfectly hardy. Ripe from 
September 20 ; excellent spirited table grape to which transporta- 
tion does no injury ; it gives also a fine red wine. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 11 

C. The Delaware Groups. 

1. The Delaivare, the leading variety among the American 
natives, and called "the little amber gem of the vineyard," was 
first exhibited, in 1845, by A. Thomson, of Delaware, Ohio, under 
the name of the Heath Grape, but the development of its culture 
was rather slow, almost as slow as its growth itself; growing in any 
latitude or soils, but especially on highlands ; it is at present planted 
and reared in every one of the five principal regions. Hard wood, 
vigorous stalk and enduring foliage, early, compact bunches ; small 
and imperfect berries of a beautiful wine color, which are rich, 
sugary, juicy, sweet to the center, of a delicate skin, transparent 
when ripe, firmly adhering to their peduncles and deliciously fla- 
vored, their flavor resembling that of the French Frontignans. 
Being a late keeper, and containing more saccharine than, for in- 
stance, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau (France), and twice as much 
as most natives, it is superior to all of these, and not inferior to any 
foreign grape, I presume. Being disposed to overbearing, and of a 
sensitive nature, it needs a great deal of care and labor. Ripe 
from September 10 ; in Georgia, however, from July 5 to 10 ; a 
most excellent table grape ; fine transparent raisins ; a very good 
wine grape ; 10 2 lbs. of berries furnish one gallon of wine, which 
will develop its excellent qualities in full only after three years. 

D. The Southern Group. 

1. The Lincoln, also called the North Carolina, the original 
borders of which were the mountains of western North Carolina, is 
one of the most valuable of the Southern Group. Its small, black 
berries are rich, spicy, vinous, although a little foxy, and contain 
more saccharine than even the Herbemont ; their aroma is musca- 
tel. Ripe from September 10 ; a fine table grape. Lincoln wine 
is said to be only a little inferior to Delaware ; keeps well and im- 
proves by age. 

2. The Pauline, or Georgia Burgundy, hails from Georgia, and 
is pronounced by A. D. Cardence, of South Carolina, as being de- 
cidedly of American origin. Its reddish brown berries, are very 
sweet and juicy, of the Herbemont size, and transparent, never rot; 
loose bunches ; is said to be nearly as good as the Delaware ; ripe 
from September 10; delicious table grape ; good wine berry. 

3. The Elsinbury, a hardy and healthy variety from the South, 
was first taken under culture in 1844, at Salem County, New Jersey. 



12 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Large long bunches, diminutive berries, of a blueish purple, with a 
very thin, closely adhering skin, and red juice. They are spicier 
than the Lincoln, and tender to the center, but their merits have 
been greatly overlooked. Ripe from September 20 ; a delicious ta- 
ble grape, and as such not surpassed by any. 

4. Ives' Seedling, a very promising wine grape ; is, although ex- 
tensively cultivated at the West, not yet generally known at the 
East, but it is already beyond doubt that it has a future with the 
wine manufacturers of the land. I^ark purple, perfect and uni- 
form berries, a little larger than the Delaware, in medium, compact 
bunches, and more juicy than fleshy, with a peculiar foxy flavor, 
which gradually disappears from the wine in advancing to older 
age. Free from mildew. Its health, vigor and general good qual- 
ities notwithstanding, it was long overlooked. Ripe from Septem- 
ber 20 ; no table nor raisin grape ; as a leading wine grape it is 
very valuable and marketable at a high price, and brings from 7 to 
9 cents per pound, whilst the Catawba is generally sold at 5 cents ; 
its wine is like Burgundy. 

5. Norton's Virginia, the best red wine grape in the market, is 
now widely cultivated and appreciated by connoisseurs, al- 
though it is comparatively young. Bunches of medium size and 
pretty compact. Black berries of a hardy and vigorous nature, 
which contain considerable tannic acid, soft, sweetness and vigorous 
flavor, without foxiness ; thin skin ; the pulp is very juicy, not fleshy, 
ripens to the center, and contains more saccharine than almost 
any one of our natives. The adherent qualities of the berries are 
indicative of late keeping in the highest degree. Ripe from Octo- 
ber 15, near Cleveland, O. No table nor raisin grape ; excellent 
wine grape. Norton's Virginia resembles Bordeaux, is an author- 
itively recommended remedy in cases of diarrhoea, and brings about 
$3.00 per gallon, at which price it is marketable, even under unfa- 
vorable circumstances, occasioned through very little demand. 

E. The European Crosslinks. 

1. The Herbemont, the best Madeira wine grape of America, 
and as such plentifully cultivated in Missouri, probably belongs to 
the Pineau family of Europe, and is quite dissimilar to the foxy 
natives. Either Sir Walter Raleigh (Oct. 30, 1618), introduced 
and planted it on the banks of the Roanoke about the end of the 
XVI century, or the first French settlers brought it along with 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 13 

them to Louisiana in 1682. Afterwards it became wild growing. 
N. Herbemont, an emigrated Frenchman, from Burgundy, found it 
as such in the woods of Georgia, and transplanted it on the soil of 
South Carolina in 1834. It is the most vigorous vine in growth, 
and the richest in crop, giving, for instance, 500 gallons of wine 
from one acre in Missouri, some time ago, and can stand the North 
ern climate as far as one degree north of New York. Dark-blue 
round berries, sometimes crimson, of one-half inch in diameter, 
without flesh or fibre, slightly acid, spicy and juicy, but without 
perfume, very tender and adherent skin, without the least foxiness ; 
large and handsome, double shouldered bunches, large violet canes, 
covered with waxen bloom ; the young shoots are necessarily to be 
stopped before the last of August, like with the Diana. Ripe from 
September 15. Excellent table grape ; very good wine berry, but 
not much at the North. No raisin grape. 

2. Allen's Hybrid, introduced by I. Fisk Allen, of Salem 
Mass., as the first specie crossing the native Isabella with a foreign 
variety, the Chasselas de Fontainebleau of France, and sometimes 
considered as the best white grape ; is a vigorous grower and earlier 
bearer. Its hardy leaves are free of mildew ; its good-sized bunches 
and berries white in the shade, and green amber when ripe and 
sound, with a rich vinous flavor and muscatel aroma. Ripe from 
September 20. Excellent first-class table grape, 

3. The Wilder or Roger's Hybrid, No. 4, an early variety of 
established reputation ; is very productive ; large and compact 
bunches. The berries are larger than the Concord's, prior to which 
they ripen ; deep blue-black, tender, sweet and piquant ; they have 
a thick skin and keep well. Ripe from September 10. Fine table 
grape. 

F. General Remarks. 

1. As the best table grapes containing the requisite quantity of 
tartaric acid and saccharine are considered : 

A. The Delaware, Eumelan, Iona, Elsingburg, Diana, Lincoln* 
Herbemont, Pauline, Adirondac, Martha, Wilder, Anna, Allen's 
Hybrid and the Israella. 

B. The Catawba, Concord and Clinton. 

C. The Isabella, Hartford, Prolific, Rebecca, Union Village, 
Crevling and Cuyahoga. 



14 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

The most remarkable for long transportation, however, are the 
Catawba and Concord varieties 

2. As either excellent or good marketable wine grapes, I would 
mention : 

A. Norton's Virginia, Ives' Seedling, the Delaware, Catawba, 
Concord, Martha and Clinton. 

B. The Iona, Diana, Adirondac, Anna, Herbemont, Lincoln 
and Pauline. 

As long as the standard of American wine manufacture will 
remain a low one, Catawba wine will be the most asked for, although 
Norton's, Ives', Delaware, and some other Southern, or compound 
brands, are far superior. 

4. For raisins fleshy grapes are required, such as the Delaware, 
Iona, Israella, Diana, Anna, etc. 

4. For preserves use the Isabella (the best) and Concord. 

5 For trial in new localities I would recommend no other but 
full established varieties, such as the Catawba, Isabella, Delaware, 
Concord, Iona, Clinton, Martha, Diana, Crevling, Hartford, Prolific, 
Norton's and Ives'. 



II. Historical Review of Grape Culture. 



Grape culture is of an ancient date. The old Indians, Egyp- 
tians, Hebrews, Greeks and Romans cultivated the beautiful vine in 
times of yore. Three thousand years ago, Hesiod, a renowned poet 
of Hellas, wrote on the subject, and the elder Pliny, the great Ro- 
man naturalist, who was born when our Savior was twenty-three 
years of age, knew already of ninety varieties, and fully described 
almost the same methods of training and pruning which are now in 
vogue. In those remote days the vintagers of Campania, a fertile 
province of Southern Italy, had the climbing vine embrace the 
lofty poplar, and in other regions it was trained to the elm tree, in- 
stead of a stake. 

Those ancient oriental ancestors of our grape-growers called the 
vine a tree, of such immense size and age was the stem. Only think 
of that famous vine six hundred years old that Pliny talked of. In 
America, me seems, it does not reach the same size and age, at least, 
not generally, for if people relate of some huge vines in the alluvial 



ORAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 15 

soil of the Ohio Valley that attained three feet in circumference each 
or a Californian vine is boasted of having a circuit of even ten feet, 
with 7,000 bunches of grapes upon it at a time, these prodigious 
specimens are merely exceptions. The highest age of the American 
natives is estimated at fifty years. 

Only the grapes of Syria, and Persia, and those on the hill-sides 
of the Caucasus and Himalaya in Asia attain perfection and full 
ripeness ; the natives of America and Europe never. 

In Europe, where at the present time the Germans, Spaniards, 
French, Hungarians, Italians and Greeks are foremost in grape cul- 
ture, the vine growing region extends from the 36th to the 52d 
degree of Northern latitude, whilst our vine zone is girdled by the 
23d and 41st degrees. Europe is comparatively warmer than 
North America, because of that great heatiug appatatus, the gigan- 
tic gulf stream. 

Grape culture commenced on this side of the briny Atlantic 
two and three hundred years ago, when the first English and French 
settlers came to this country, theu, so to speak with Robert Burns, 
full of wild hanging woods and loud pouring floods, but it broke 
down pretty soon, and therefore we have to date it properly from 
the introduction of the native Catawba, its healthy and vigorous 
pioneer, in 1825. 

Grape culture is one of the standard bearers of civilization on 
the road to prosperity. "Let every man dwell safely under his own 
vine." 



. Location. 



Any dry soil that will grow corn or potatoes is well fit for vine 
growing. Stony soil, far from being an obstacle, is so much the 
more promoting the growth of vines and their health and vigor. It 
has been shown to evidence that stones are excellent keepers of 
warmth, and warmth is a life-preserver proper to the whole vinous 
kindred. Heavy clay may be considered preferable to light sand, 
but the latter can also be adapted. 

Dry sub-soil, either natural or worked through artificial drain- 
age, is required in the first place, because the lodgment of water in 
the soil needs must be as injurious to the vine as excessive dryness 



16 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

The lowest degree of moistness is no wetness or dampness ; yet, how- 
ever, any location which is exposed to the sun for the greatest part 
of the day, is recommendable, and especially so, if it is situated on 
or in the vicinity of lake shores, river banks, or even pond and 
creek slopes, since the influence of the water upon the atmosphere 
has the power of protracting the growing season, through addition- 
ally giving it three or four more weeks so desirable for ripening the 
berries. 

It being absolutely necessary that the cane, together with Its 
foliage be fully turned to the sun, every vinyard or single trellis and 
stake naturally ought to be located on the south or south-west side 
of a hill, slope or house, and should be sheltered from northerly and 
westerly winds — which in cousequence of their drying and tearing 
tendencies, necessarily are most injurious — by walls, board fences 
or belts of trees, especially evergreens. 

The sun is the very pater familias of the vines ; the earth needs 
an improved condition for efficiently being their nourishing mother ; 
but destroying blasts of wind, rapacious weeds, melancholic fogs, 
the vapors of boggy swamps, the devasting powers of water, and its 
damp sediments are as many inimical elements. 

The viny kindred will never prosper under the whip of the tor- 
nadoes of the West Indies, nor in the dismal swamps of both Car- 
olinas. They are, besides, rather so to say, mountaineers and 'long- 
shoremen by birth and occupation. 



IV. Soil and its Preparation. 

— > • 

Precursory to planting a vineyard is the preparation of the soil. 

A level, non-sloping ground I would not recommend, because, 
the sloping tendency of a tract of vine land is necessarily required 
for its drainage. An incline plane of some steepness only needs 
upper drainage for taking away the surplus water, but a ground 
which is only a little sloping needs under-drainage, through drains 
of about twenty-four feet apart, and three feet deep, between rows 
which, by-the-by, increases the temperature about ten or twelve 
degrees ; the former tract is preferable, of course. 

Therefore, a pretty steeply sloping, dryish ground, which is shel- 
tered from northerly and westerly winds, is to be selected for a vine- 
yard. I mention here, right away, that severe freezing, and espe- 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 17 

cially the sudden changes from freezing to thawing, are very injurious 
to the young stalk in their course of growing. Moistness is not 
damaging in spring, but it ought to be reduced to its lowest degree 
before the end of June, when several diseases appear, to which the 
Catawba is not much subject, however. Be it said at the same 
time that the newest varieties are less often attacked by mildew 
than the old stock. 

In most cases the soil is rich enough without any manure, it 
being a general rule that too rich, or enriched, soil will pro- 
duce rich wood and foliage, but very poor berries. In case manure 
ii to be used, in order to bring a very poor soil to a good standard 
of bemothering the vines, a moderate coating of well rotted stable 
or barnyard manure, eventually well mixed together with entirely 
rotted pasture, roadside or meadow sods, is applicable. Green sods 
should not be used at all, because of their containing a good deal 
of weeds, and the same is to say of the hog and horse manures, the 
former being possessed of too little heat, and the latter of too much j 
mixed with other manures, both of them will work well though. 

If the ground is too compact, or sandy, or open soil of a different 
character, or a good amount of leaves, mould or muck can be so 
intermixed with it. 

The best time for preparing the soil is the month of March, after 
it has been plowed and harrowed, or worked otherwise, in the pre- 
vious fall. If manuring is required, scatter the dung stuff over the 
surface and plow it under. Plow the field from eight inches to one 
foot deep, or deeper, if possible, and the garden from one foot to two 
feet, then harrow it, and see to well clearing it of weeds, grasses and 
other plants which would be as many competitors in eating up the 
livelihood of the viney kindred; only heavy and compact clay soil 
may be subsoiled, not for throwing the underground up, but only for 
stirring and loosening it. 

The aspect of the pulverized condition of a well -worked soil 
designated for bedding the vines in, is full of hopes for their early 
and vigorous growth, and planting may be undertaken at once. 



18 TEN YEARS* EXPERIENCE IN 



V. Plants and Planting. 



Not intending to speak of or recommend the use of any plants 
propogated from single eyes or buds, although I know very well 
that every eye or a bud is an infant plant without roots. I will 
say that concerning the choice of settings, to a certain extent, the 
social adage, age before beauty, is indicative ; age, in our case, being 
preferable to largeness. A plant three years old with plenty of 
strong roots and thoroughly ripened wood is considered best, if ft 
is, at the same time, healthy at the center where roots join wood. 

The canes having been cut down to one or two eyes, which needs 
must not be damaged, and their roots to a length of 12-15 inches, 
are ready for being planted. 

The first work to be done is the marking of straight-lined rows, 
running north to south. Then these rows are either furrowed out 
both ways, as though it were for corn, eight inches deep, and made 
ready for receiving the plants at six feet distance between each of 
them, or dug out, the holes being at the same distance and of the 
depth, (seven inches in clay), and two feet in diameter at the bottom, 
to bed the plants in ; but this is a rule, the smaller the setting, the 
less deep the excavation. The method of furrowing is the easier 
way, that of digging the safer, however. 

I repeat, in this place, that every border must be made attrac- 
tive of moisture, but not of wetness or continued dampness ; water- 
ing at sunshine is to be avoided ; if, at the time of planting, the 
weather is warm and the soil dry, one quart of water to each vine 
poured around it before sunrise, or after sundown will be sufficient. 

The bottom of the hole referred to above, ought to have a ridge 
two inches high at its center, to lay the cane upon, the roots, of 
which are to be equally and uniformly spread from there, and to be 
elsewhere quite level and without the least depression. Then pour 
pulverized soil from a spade upon the roots ; then fill up the hole and 
make the soil finely compact by pressing it with your feet or hands, 
and take care that the soil be most compact at the axes of the stem 
or cane. To mulch the surface of this filling with course material, 
such as straw, course barn yard or stable yard and chip manure, or 
with wood ashes is recommendable, but not always necessary. Po- 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 19 

tatoes, turnips, or strawberry raising is allowable between rows, 
especially it the vintager adopt the proportion of six by eight feet 
instead of six by six. 

Kegular stake setting, of little use at the time of planting, and 
in the first year, will be timely in the spring of the second year, 
but a small stick about two feet above the ground is useful for in- 
dicating the spot where the vine was planted, and training the cane 
to it. Planting in rows of six by eight gives 900 vines to the acre, 
and six by six feet, 1,200, all told and roundly cyphered. 



VI. Training and Pruning. 



A. Generalities. 

The vine being a savage and a native of warmer climates, it 
must be subjected to training and education, like man, and at the 
same time its acclimation in northern regions and less congenial 
climates generally is necessitated. This is the uniform object of 
training, and pruning, and working all together. Vine culture in 
America was experimental in the first place, and only experience 
could enable vintagers and nurserymen to apply the best method of 
refining a native savage from the large vegetable kingdom. 

My design is, however, to simplify the whole training, pruning 
and working practice, and to give, in this respect, the most possibly 
plain advice and directions, since I am well aware that an unex- 
perienced farmer or small land owner who made up his mind to at- 
tempt vine growing, and for this purpose, has read through, for in- 
stance fifty pages of methodical advice, or grape growing method- 
ism, gotten up in an embarrassing manner by bewildering and self- 
bewildered theorists, feels as puzzled as the old, genuine Dutchman 
with the traditional mill-wheel turning in his head. 

Here are a few general maxims based upon, and aiming at, 
sensible practice. 

1st. It is a matter of fact that, if the infant vine was not 
well trained nor sensibly educated (cultivated), the adult vine will 
necessarily bear the germs of degeneration, or debility, or at least 
its old, savage habits in its body, although it may appear to be in 
a flourishing condition. 



20 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

2d. Productiveness, and not exuberance of foliage, nor abund- 
ance of green or wild wood is to be aimed at ; consequently this is 
a rule : restrain the savage tendency of the vine to extend itself, 
particularly in an upward direction, and do not overcrop or over- 
grow it. Extreme productiveness naturally is opposed to excellent 
qualities of fruit, just so as early marriage and cohabitation is the 
most evident cause of feeble children, and if it should become gen- 
eral, a feeble generation would be the next. 

3d. The vine is to be kept low, particularly in cold localities, 
because it is warmer near the earth, than higher up, and the tips 
(ends) of the shoots are easily damaged by frosts. Bunches from a 
high trained vine don't furnish any good wine grapes. With the 
Khinelanders, so famous for their unsurpassed skill in vine training 
and grape growing, you never find a high raised vine, and in cold 
Minnesota they keep their fruit-bearing canes only a few inches 
from the ground 

4th. All grapes, chemically analyzed, principally contain sugar 
and water, and these constituents are also found in the air ; there- 
fore, as a matter of logical consequence, the vine is not very exhaust- 
ive, and for its nourishment the maternal soil is little drawn upon. 
Wheat and corn, on the other hand, abound in phosphates drawn 
from the soil exclusively, and naturally are of a very exhaustive 
character, heavily taxing the maternal earth and requiring rich 
manure. But there are also some inorganic constituents in a grape, 
such as tartaric acid, tannic acid, &c, and therefore it is a matter 
of course that the manuring of vineyards or vine borders with inor- 
ganic manures, such as wood ashes, lime, and vine cuttings is required 
for furnishing these constituents of the grape for which the air 
cannot be drawn upon. 

5th. Table grapes needs must have more richness of soil at their 
deposition than wine or raisin grapes. 

6th. Tying the vines too tight to the trellises or stakes is inju- 
rious, because it obstructs the free flow of their sap, i. e. the blood 
of their veins and arteries 

7th. Excessive pruning is always a cause of diseases to the vine. 
In evidence of this fact, I would refer to some vintagers who have 
tried not to prune at all ; ail their vines were found free of diseases, 
but, at the same time, fruitless paupers May it be mentioned here, 
in conclusion, however, that the Isabella, Clinton and Concord varie- 
ties, in their fruit bearing condition, are very fond of long canes. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE 21 

8th. For field culture, as well as for the purpose of wine grape 
growing, stake training is by far the more recommend able system- 
Table and raisin grape growing admits of both the stake and trel- 
lis systems, with equal benefits. 

Remark — I would say here, right away, that pruning is in- 
cluded in the training process, and will not allow to be separately 
written upon, since it naturally belongs to, and is the main feature 
of, the education of the vine in its different phases and epochs. 

Bo Stake Training and Pruning. 

A vine is not fully established until after the fourth year, and 
therefore I expect to give simple directions as to how to train and 
prune up to that time. 

Pruning is necessary to keep the growth of the vine within cer- 
tain limits, beyond which to trespass its climbing tendencies at- 
tempted at, and to distribute its shoots and fruit equally. Pruning 
too near to the bud, or eye, is generally damaging, because it involves 
the latter in the drying down process which immediately sets in 
after pruning. 

Fall pruning is less recommendable than spring pruning, but it 
may be performed, in order to avoid the accumulation of spring 
labor ; only leave one or two more buds, because frost often kills 
the tips of the cane, and cut them off in spring, if they have not 
been spoiled by frost. 

Spring pruning is to commence about the middle of February 
when the action of vitality, i. e. the moving of the sap, has not yet 
arisen from its winter sleep, and fall pruning when it has ceased, 
about the middle of November. 

Stake setting is not absolutely required during the first growing 
season, but small interim sticks two feet high will answer the pur- 
pose of indicating the planted vines and tieing them when suffi- 
ciently grown. The stakes may be located, nevertheless, at the 
time of planting as well, or else in the spring of the second year. 
Have them made of durable timber, such as oak, chestnut or acacia, 
and placed on the northern side of the borders, about six inches 
from each vine, six feet above the ground and two feet under it; if 
their underground portions be tarred, they are less subject to rot. 

In conclusion, I feel bound to mention a couple of characteris- 
tioal features, such as] the tendency of growth is from the center of 



22 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

the ends of the shoots : growing canes generally become longer than* 
fruiting ones ; superfluous flower clusters are to be removed as soon 
as they appear, because they are very exhaustive, etc. Now I ana 
ready to go into the training and pruning process of the quadren- 
nial period above mentioned, right away, starting from the suppo- 
sition that vines with two buds left have been planted. 

The first, or rooting year, when the shoots are one foot high, cut 
the old wood and the feeblest shoot down to the lower shoot, and 
let the latter become a cane tied to the stake. The new leaves and 
small laterals (branch shoots) are better left alone and not rubbed 
off*. As many shoots and leaves as there appear above the ground, 
as many roots and rootlets there are under the ground. 

The second or caning year, keep the stump possibly short. Al- 
low two canes to grow from the two lower buds to a height of not 
over six feet, corresponding with the height of the stakes. Rub off 
the buds, commencing from the tips of the canes, but always leave 
two additional leaves and laterals which are to be cut down to one 
foot each. Cut both of these canes down to two buds each, when 
their action commences to cease in the fall. 

The third or settling year, the principal canes become standards. 
Allow four canes to grow from the two buds left on each of the 
canes of the second year ; two of them may be trained to a slat 
reaching from the foot of one stake to the top of the neighboring 
one, or to additional stakes, and two to the main stake. The latter 
may be allowed to bear fruit, if the vine be very strong and healthy ; 
if not, all flower clusters should be removed as soon as they make 
their appearance. Shorten the laterals to one foot in length, and 
the canes, during the growing season, to 6 feet long. In fall cut 
the two stake canes, or standards, entirely off, and cover the two 
slat or branch canes, after having laid them down, with soil, in or- 
der to protect them from frost. But this covering is only necessary 
in very cold localities, and with certain varieties of a very sensitive 
character. In this latitude, i. e. that of Cleveland, it is sufficient 
to cut the slat canes down to from four to six eyes and leave them 
(uncovered. 

The fourth or fruiting year, allow four canes to grow, two of 
which, the slat canes of the previous year, are to become fruit- 
ing canes and to be tied to the stake ; whilst the other two, the stake 
canes of the last year, are now only growing canes and to be tied 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 23 

to the slat or additional stakes. Those fruiting canes will bear from 
three to five bunches of grapes on their laterals each, which ought 
to be stopped at the second leaf beyond the last bunch. Remove 
the flower clusters from the two growing canes and their laterals. 
In fall cut the main stake canes down to the last bud, and the 
others to from four to six eyes. 

Hence, i. e. from the end of the fourth season, the training and 
pruning process is very simple and almost entirely involved in 
these two rules : alternate the growing and fruiting canes every 
year, which means cut the latter down to one bud and the former 
to four or five buds, and when the season commences in the spring 
of the next year, tie the new fruiting canes which were growing 
canes in the last year to the stake, and rub off the flower clusters 
from the new growing canes which were the last fruiting canes. 

Suffice it to make still a few additional remarks in general, viz : 

1st. Sometimes there will appear several adventitious or acces- 
sory buds upon the oldest wood of the vine which is generally called 
stem or stump; this occurs in the seasons following the first year. 
Rub them off, but leave as many as you want for the season — one, 
two, four, or part of them ; train them instead of the shooting 
canes of the previous year, which are, in this case, to be entirely re- 
moved, for it is apparent and natural that the vitality of the vine 
is always most vigorous in the closest vicinity of the stem, and di- 
minishes in the same degree as it gradually retires from the stock 
(stem) and its roots This is not only intended to say in regard to 
the stake system, but also to the training to trellises. 

2d. Nearly four-fifths of the vine are cut down every year, in 
order to allow in full the food from air and ground, which the thus 
doomed portions of the vine would require for their livelihood, to 
the remaining one-fifth — a process which is enhancing its growth 
and vigor. 

3d. Old wood is to be cut down as much as possible. 

4th. Have the-fruiting canes always tied to the main stake and 
in the closest connection with the stem. 

5th. For ties I would recommend bass wood, willow twigs, the 
yarn of old coffee bags, and, in want of these materials, every com- 
mon string except woolen yarn. 

6th. Vine trimmings being very good manure, since they are 
homogeneous to the mother vine, leave them on the ground between 
the rows and vines. 



24 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

7th. If a man wants to particularly shelter his young vine, and 
thereby promote its early growth and vigor, this can be done either 
through two boards, one foot wide and eighteen inches long, form- 
ing a right-angled triangle, its board sides facing North and West, 
or three boards forming a square, the open side of which facing 
southeast, or finally an open box without a bottom. I don't think 
this kind of shelter necessary for field culture, but it may be of 
some use in gardens which are not well sheltered from northerly 
and westerly winds. 

8th. During the growing season, the soil between the rows and 
vines ought to be kept free of weeds, grasses and other plants, (to 
the latter, potatoes, strawberries, turnips, &c, may be exceptions) — 
therefore clear the ground. But since the ramification of the roots 
and rootlets after the early part of June reaches a point only three 
inches below the surface, and it being very injurious to disturb 
them, only the surface should be stirred or skimmed, and this no 
later in the season than up to August 1st. 

9th. In November, when the growing season is passed, and it 
is no more so damaging to disturb the roots a little, I think it ad- 
visable to plow between rows from three to four inches deep, and, at 
the same time to turn the furrows toward the vines, which will also 
protect them through the winter. 

10th. These are the necessary vinticultural implements : plows, 
cultivators, square hoes, two tongued hoes, for strong and tenacious 
soil, one tongued, triangular and pointed hoes for stony soil, many 
pronged potatoe diggers for heavy soil, and finally, sharp pruning 
shears, scissors or knives. In conclusion I would state that I, like 
a witness in court, thought myself bound to "say the truth, the 
whole truth, and nothing but the truth," upon this very difficult 
subject. Since I am fully convinced that a certain embarras de 
richesse would be as embarrassing to laymen vine growers in future 
as certain very learned essays on the same bewildering subject have 
proved to be in the past. 

Explanation — The rubbing off of buds and flower clusters, 
wheresoever it may be mentioned, is always understood as only to 
' down to two leaves of the growing cane. 

C. Trellis Training and Pruning. 

The trellis system is, methinks, not very recommendable either 
for the field or the culture of wine grapes, but for the garden and 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 25 

fruit grape culture only, and particularly so on the south and south 
east sides of houses, walls or board fences. It may give a good 
table or raisin grape, but it shows a good wine grape nowhere, because 
high hanging grapes are too far removed from the soil upon which 
they needs must draw for their want of acids. At the same time it 
is apparent that the trellis system is preferable, nevertheless, in an 
ornamental respect, because every man with a little common sense 
is able to train and draw the shoots, canes, laterals, arms, and 
branches of the vine in any direction and to give the whole orna- 
mental shape and form. It is therefore not necessary to subpoena 
a score of different intricate systems, such as the Speechly and 
Hogr methods, and others, but it is much more natural, I beg par- 
don to suppose, to explain to him in brief only one system, and for 
the balance to leave him alone with his own common sense. 

The system which I want to show is the oldest, and, after all, 
the most efficient too ; it is the original Thomery system, so named 
after a village near Paris, France, over one hundred and fifty years 
old, and, of course, from time to time improved by thinking vine 
growers. Before entering upon its detail, however, I would state 
that training to trellises involves a tendency of the vine to cluster its 
leaves ; this ought to be prevented through equally distributing its 
canes, for every leaf wants its sunshine and air and will perish in a 
shady place without airiness. The stake and slat system is, in this 
respect, more preventive, by the by. 

1st. For garden trellises take stakes of good durable timber, 
set them six feet apart in rows running north to south, five feet 
above the ground, and draw four wires from one to another at in- 
tervals of fourteen inches; 1,250 pounds of No. 9 wire is required 
for an acre. First year, one cane — avoid all severe pinching and 
pruning ; second year, two canes — in fall cut them down to three 
eyes each ; third year, six canes — stop them at the end of the trellis, 
cut three canes down to two buds each, and the balance to about 
three feet long; fourth year allow six canes to grow from the two 
eyed, for fruiting, and branch the three-footers ; in fall cut the fruit- 
ing canes to one or two buds, and the branch canes to three feet 
each. Every following year four to six strong fruiters may be 
grown from the buds of the growers of the previous year. 

2d. For house or wall trellises take strong posts of suitable 
height, place them at eight feet distance and connect them by hor- 



26 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

izontal wires, or better, laths. Dig the trench three feet deep and 
ten to twelve feet wide, dear the soil of weeds and other obnoxious 
plants, feed the border with thoroughly mixed stable manure and 
wood ashes, pulverize the whole feeding soil, and plant the vines 
one-half foot from the wall, which done, the sidewalk, i. e., the bor- 
der may be flagged, because it needs no further working in time to 
come. In the first season the canes, one to each vine, are to be 
kept upright and well tied, and two leaves are always to be taken 
off the latterals, when they have grown. The canes are to become 
strong standards afterwards ; the arms can be horizontally laid at 
convenient bights and the lowest of them high enough not to inter- 
fere with the sidewalk passage ; but only one pair of arms is to be 
branched off from one vine. The upper arm-shoots should be 
shortened, but the under arm-shoots rubbed off entirely, as soon as 
they appear. 

The former are alternately single and paired, the latter of 
which spring from t>vo buds bedded in the axil or arm-pit of every 
leaf, one of which is visible and the other scarcely discernable. In 
order to get directly opposite arms, the standard or main canes 
(each vine is to have one) ought to be cut off at a convenient 
height above a leaf in the axil of which the ' visible and dormant 
buds are secured. The former will shoot forth immediately, as soon 
as the growing season commences, and the latter the next year, or 
right away, if the cane which sprung from yon visible bud be 
stopped and not allowed to bear even a single leaf; if it be allowed 
to grow, it takes, of course, the sap from the dormant bud, and this 
little embryo is prevented from growing. The Thomery method 
reaches its highest degree of perfection in the triple system, which is 
as follows, viz: Take six standards, the first and fifth to form the 
lower arms, the second and fourth the upper ones, and the third and 
sixth the middle branches. It is said with some authority that un- 
der the management of this system the fruit ripens earlier and 
keeps later, even until December. 

But, after all, general directions for stake training and pruning 
are applicable, as far as they are not conflicting with the above; 
also to trellis training. 

D. Conclusive, Hints, &c. 

1st. The sun is a fountain of life to the vine. 

2d. The air is its best Long Branch or Saratoga Springs. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 27 

3d. The lap of the maternal earth is its all satisfying home, if 
her chief homestead laws be chastity and labor. 

4th. In a sanitary respect, the vine is like man ; keep its feet 
(roots) warm, and it generally remains healthy. 

5th. Roaming and roving is perilous ; let the vine stay near- 
est to its home, or it will become a vagrant and pauper in a short 
time. 

6th. Grapes are like children ; bring all of them uniformly up 
to perfection, and don't send them too far away from home (the 
stem) before they have attained age. 

7th. Haughtiness is no virtue ; the largest bunches of grapes 
would hang on the highest branches, indeed, but the most delicate 
fruit is borne by the lower ones ; this is a practical illustration of 
the famous "stoop to conquor." 

8th. A man who wants to master the subject of vinticulture 
thoroughly, ought to have a clear insight into the very nature of 
the vine and its system, or else he will be like the infidel who derides 
God and religion, because he knows them not, nor himself. 

In concluding this subject I feel obliged to thank my father, J. 
P. Preyer, Esq., proprietor of the Lake View Wine Farm, the 
largest in the State of Ohio, for a great many practical hints and 
explanations inserted and spread all over this essay. 



VII. Propagation. 



There are five different methods of propagation, but only two of 
which I expect to recommend in the first place ; these are the cut- 
ting and layering methods. 

1st. Cuttings are prepared in fall from well ripened wood, of 
three buds each, which are not to be injured, and cut down to an 
inch above the upper bud, and close up to the lower one. During 
the winter keep them out doors under a slight cover of soil and 
straw. Cool temperature and a little moistness is required, In 
spring dig sloping trenches, ten inches deep, and put the cuttings in 
six inches apart, so that the center point between the two upper 
buds be visible at the surface of the ground, which is to be well 
pressed down, and covered with coarse litter. Canes of 3-5 feet long 
will grow during the season which are to be tied up to stakes or 



28 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

made to climb upon pea-brush. Having been covered up during 
the second winter, they irfay be planted the next spring. The Diana 
and several other improved varieties cannot be propagated this way, 

2. Layering is the second of the principal methods. About 
July 1st, select a vigorous shoot of a viue, bend it down to the 
ground, and at the point where it touches it, cut it from the upper 
side half way through, then place the shoot's tip into a hole three 
inches deep, fill it up and press the soil well down. Detach the 
shoot at the half cut after seven or eight weeks, when it has rooted, 
and set it out or leave it alone, wherever ycu want it, but early 
enough to become established before winter. 

3. Grafting, so familiar with the ancients, and only different 
from layering in splitting, instead of half-cutting, has now become 
nearly obsolete. 

4. The propagation from single buds or eyes need a hot-bed, 
and is the nurseryman's favorite method. Cut the cuttings in spring 
in two, and leave one-half inch of wood below, and three-fourth 
inches above the eye. Fill a box three inches deep with clean sand* 
put the buds in a slanting position, their tops looking towards the 
surface, at two inches apart, cover them up with sand and press it 
down firmly. The second week of March is the most suitable time 
for this work. The sand ought to be kept moist. Transplant the 
young vines when three inches long, into another hot-bed made of 
ordinary soil, and set them out doors when the weather has become 
warm and settled, but, mind you, they need shade in the hot sun, 
and when dry. The Diana can be propagated this way. 

5. The propagation by seed is uncertain, but necessary for get- 
ting new and better varieties. It is experimental altogether. Take 
thoroughly ripened seed from the best varieties, and sow it in the 
fall into a bed well worked and mingled with leaf manure from the 
forest; sow it pretty thickly into drills fifteen inches apart, and 
cover it with soil of one-half inch thickness. First spring — when 
three inches high, thin the young plants to three feet apart in rows, 
mulch them with coarse litter, and cover them with pea brush to 
climb upon. Second fall — cut off the roots to 6-8 inches, and prune 
down the stem to two buds, then heel them in tor the winter. Sec- 
ond spring — Transplant the seedlings to become vines. Third fall 
— handle them in accordance with the general training and pruning 
rules. Third growing season — allow only two canes to grow, one of 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 29 

which will bear fruit. None of the seedlings will be found like 
their parent, a great many inferior, and only some superior. Destroy, 
if you want to, the inferiors, and give the superiors a fair trial. The 
Iona was such a superior seedling. Sometimes people try raisin- 
seeds in this manner. 

Hybridization belongs under this heading. The process is as fol- 
lows: Impregnate the flowers off, for instance, an early and hardy 
vine of poor quality, with the pollen of a tender one of good quality, 
and sow the seeds in the manner above mentioned. 

For the rest, it is remarkably easy to propagate the vine, and 
there is no plant all over the vegetable kingdom which is its su- 
perior in this respect. 



VIII. Diseases of the Vine, Etc. 



Diseased or distempered plants are incurable, and feeble parents 
have feeble children, therefore, every plant, be it a cuttiugor a bud, 
should be taken from a strong and healthy mother vine. 

Diseases are occasioned either by external or internal causes, or 
to speak more plainly, by insects or decay, in most instances both 
working together, and all of them coincide in destroying the vine 
or its fruit wholly or partially. Mildew, some insects and rot are 
the worst enemies of the vine. 

A. Mildew. 

The mildew, or Oidium Tuckeri, is named after Mr. Tucker, a 
gardener at Margate, England, where it first was observed in 1845. 
Thence it spread all over the vineyards of Europe and America. 

The naturalists did not agree yet upon the real cause of this 
wide-spread disease, by which the Catawba, however, is least effected. 
I propose the following hypothesis, viz : The father vines cohabit 
with the mother vines by semination through the air, especially in 
dark, foggy weather, when the atmosphere loaded with vapors is 
dense enough to carry the light pollens of the former to the latter 
upon which they settle down in the parasitical form of mildew. 
Perhaps this pernicious disease is of a fungous nature though. 



30 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Mildew softens the skin of the leaves, and is disposed to appear 
in May, when they are well developed. Feeble health of the vine, 
unfertile, too rich, too shallow, and too wet grounds, too crowded 
leaves which, by overshadowing one another, would prevent the 
action of the sun upon them, a location too close to a sheltering 
wall or fence, and too near each other, the proximity of trees, par- 
ticularly pear trees, sudden changes of weather, rainy days, scarcity 
of light, dense fogs, and a motionless atmosphere; all of these are 
as many allies of mildew. 

Pulverized, dry sulpher brought into slow combustion by the rays 
of the sun. is a remedy invented by Mr. Mares, of England. It 
would be strewn upon the under side of the leaves which are chiefly 
beset. Moist or course sulpher, which is void of action, is useless. 
Sulpherizing often is needed a second time in June, but very seldom 
in July. 

B. Rot. 

The rotting of the grapes is most successfully prevented through 
following my advice in regard to the preparation and choice of soil, 
propagation, planting, training, pruning, and the cure of visible dis- 
eases of the vine, since there has not been a specific found out as 
yet. 

C. Insects. 

1st. The FuJia, a brown haired beetle, one inch long, appears 
in June and July, particularly on the Concord and Norton's Vir- 
ginia, and eats oblong holes into the leaves. Touch the shoots or 
canes aud it will drop. 

2d. The Grape or Berry-mot, a little, many-colored butterfly, 
lays eggs into the half grown berries ; small vernias creep out after 
a while, and eat their way through berry and seed. This mot ap- 
peared five years ago in Ohio, Pennsylvania, Illinois and Missouri. 
Shy it away. 

3d. The Vineroot-worm is over two inches long, and of a white 
color, has a black head, and eats the roots of the vine ; it hails from 
rotted and hollow trees, which are, therefore, not to be allowed in 
the vicinity of vineyards. Kill it. 

4th. The Tyrale winds the young shoots with "silk" and eats 
the leaves. Unroll the shoot, and take the insects out. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 31 

5th. The Red Spider appears in vineyards during the very dry 
weather, especially if pear trees are in the vicinity, and is very 
troublesome. Sprinkle the vines with whale oil soap suds, one-half 
pound of which solved in 6-10 gallons of water. 

6th. The Quaker bug, drab-colored, with a row of dark spots 
•on either side, also belongs to the inimical host of insects. Take it 
off. 

7th. The Brown Aphias, a very small insect, sucks the juice of 
the young shoots. Wash it off with a sponge, or take it off with 
your hand. 

8th. Of the Caterpillars, the large green, naked spinner is the 
worst. Pick it off 

9th. The Rose bugs, little beetles, which don't like the Dela- 
ware, however, can destroy a whole vineyard. Pick or knock them 
off, or strew some dry ashes upon the leaves. 

10th. The Flea beetles burrow in buds, and girdle the tips of 
tender shoots. Treat them like rose bugs. 

11th. The Leaf-hopper, last bat not least, is the most mischiev- 
ous of all the insects inimical to the vine. Being very small and 
of a light green, it is scarcely perceptible. It flies and leaps, ap- 
pears early before the end of May, and stays until the end of the 
season, particularly clinging to the under sides of the leaves. SuL 
pherize them ; tobacco smoke is destructive to the vine. 

But finally, and after all, I cannot avoid reminding that there 
are no better destroyers of the above mentioned insects than birds 
of every description. 



IX. Ripeness of the Fruit 



Our native grapes never reach perfect ripeness. As long as there 
is any acidity in their skin and pulp, the ripening process is not 
accomplished yet. Transparency indicates what we call ripeness. 
The dark kinds become deeply colored in their course of ripening. 
But these and the following are merely hints, and taste remains al- 
ways the highest authority upon the subject. 

The Delaware comes nearest to perfection ; its pulp becomes 
sweet to the center, if not exactly melting, and its skin very thick, 
very little fibre remaining. The Diana is of a similar character, 



32 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

but its skin remains thicker and its pulp more fleshy. The same is 
the nature of the Israella. These three varieties ripen to the cen- 
ter, whilst the Iona commences ripening at the center, and nearly 
reaches perfect ripeness also. 

But all varieties ripen according to their location and age, and 
the general conditions of the weather. 

Some kinds commence in some localities to be ripe in August, 
others continue until November, and are not injured either by snow 
or frost; this is to say of all good keepers. 

August 15. — The Adirondac. 

August 20. — September. — The Israella. 

September 10. — The Diana, Crevling, Martha, Pauline, Lincoln, 
Delaware, Hartford, Prolific and Wilder. 

September 15. — The Herbemont, Concord and Clinton 

September 20 — The Elsingburg, Iona, Rebecca, Ives', Seedling, 
Allen's Hybrid and Eumelan. 

October. — The Anna, Catawba, Union Village, Isabella and 
Cuyhoga. 

October 15. — Norton's Virginia. 



X. Gathering and Keeping of the Fruit. 



The best time for gathering grapes is a dry day, when there is 
no dew on them. Cut with a pair of sharp shears or scissors 
through their pedicles, cut out the wormy, imperfect or green ber- 
ries, don't remove their bloom, and place them carefully into pails 
or baskets. The gathering of several well keeping varieties can be 
done as late as in November. 

For wine making purposes it is necessary that the berries hang 
long on the vines, in order to dry up a little. 

If the grapes be gathered early in the morning with dew upon 
them, and intended for table purposes, they are to be placed upon 
crates, and for two days, during which they must be often turned, 
next exposed to the air, and during the night hung up in an airy, 
covered place, the sides of which are open. 

For storing table grapes, a room on the, northern side of the 
house, which is under no influence of fire or sun, and keeps a pos- 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 33 

sibly uniform temperature of forty degrees, a dry atmosphere, and 
immovable air, or a dry cellar without funge, and with a little ven- 
tilation is recornmendable. In ventilated rooms grapes become rai- 
sins, and repeated freezings are injurious to them. 

Have the grape bunches here either separately hung up with 
wire hooks on hoops or frames with movable bars, or put into boxes 
in three or four layers, with sheets of paper between them, it being 
recommendable to line these boxes also with paper. When frost 
sets in, cover them entirely by closing the lid, and during extremely 
cold snaps spread a bed-quilt over the lid for protection. But it is 
also necessary to examine them now and then, say every fortnight, 
and to remove all defective berries. 

The Delaware lasts, if kept with some carefulness in this man- 
ner, until February, and the Isabella, Catawba, Anna, Diana, and 
Israella are said to remain in a pretty good condition even until 
April. 



XI. Use of the Fruit. 



The use of grapes is twofold. They are used either in their 
natural condition as table fruits or manufactured into wine, raisins 
and preserves. In the foregoing chapters of this essay I have hinted 
which varieties are most suitable for one or the other of these pur" 



1st. It is not now my design to explain the different methods of 
manufacturing wine, because this would go far beyond the intended 
limits of this book. Perhaps the time may come, however, when I 
am happy enough to find leisure for writing a second volume en- 
tirely devoted to this very important subject which becomes from 
day to day more popular, without being yet fully understood in all 
its branches and national economical ends. 

2d. As for the table grape, it will be sufficient, I presume, to 
refer to the remarks broadcast all over this first part which treat of 
the best selections for this purpose, and the keeping of grapes dur- 
ing the winter season. As yet, the Catawba is the best variety for 
export, and readily finds its market; grape growers express it best in 



34 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

small crates of lath, lined within with brown paper, and compactly 
packed up with whole bunches and some single berries to fill up the 
vacancies. 

3d. For making raisins it is required to gather the grapes on 
a dry day, then to spread them for a few days on crates exposed to 
the sun, afterwards to dry them on fruit-kilns, and finally to finish 
them in an oven. Experience will result from several experiments 
and be the best teacher in the future.' 

4th. For the making of preserves or jellies I give here the fol- 
lowing recipe : Take a well cleaned tin kettle or can, without the 
least grease inside ; pour a little water into it, and then fill it up 
with grapes ; place it on a stove fire, and let it come to boiling, but 
stop it as soon as it commences to bubble. Then mix the grape 
juice, which is obtained by putting the grapes in a bag, and strain- 
ing them, with good white sugar, by taking a pound of it to a pint 
of juice ; let this mixture boil for twenty minutes, and put it, before 
it gets cold, in glass cans, with well closing tin lids, which are to be 
kept in a cool place, but without exposure to freezing. 



XII. Conclusion. 



It is a fact beyond every reasonable doubt that the investment 
of capital, be it large or small, in land is much safer than any other 
speculation in stocks, or even industrial enterprises ; and, on the other 
hand, it has been shown to evidence that the accumulation of land 
in one owner's hand involves the greatest agricultural sin of this 
country, but poorly coefficient as it is in developing her rich re- 
sources. 

Speculation in stocks, nowadays as rampant as seductive, shows 
a good many pecuniary wrecks all over the land. Contrary to this, 
the passion of the Europeans to become land owners, surely ought 
to be considered an agricultural virtue worthy of being attained by 
every American. Husbandry is the most solid foundation of any 
state or union of states, be it a republic or monarchy. Morover 
the soundest family life has its homesteadly abodes in the country, 
and Christianity and humanity thrive their purest blossoms on a 
husband's farm, So much for the high praise of agriculture. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 35 

Sound husbandry requires the possibly greatest improvement of 
every acre of soil in possession of a land owner, and experience 
proves it to be a matter of fact that small land owners proportion- 
ally contributed more labor, skill and efficiency to the culture of the 
American soil than large real estaters, because they are naturally 
compelled to raise the rentability of their few acres to its utmost, 
for a livelihood. 

Now the culture of grapes, as well as the cultivation of small 
fruit, apparently is more profitable, I should think, than any other 
branch of husbandry. A statistical annotation, for instance, shows 
an average harvest of 9,000 pounds of grapes per acre for the fifth 
year, and a net profit of $250 yearly from the same acre, and finally 
that one hand can work very well five acres, perhaps with a little 
assistance in harvesting. 

The wild-growing grapes and vines of this country, besides which 
are found everywhere except on sandy grounds, are as many natural 
hints to what kind of husbandry the land owner should choose. So 
I close, brother husbandmen, with this admonition, Try a few vines, 
try a few acres for vines. 



Part II. 



SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 



PREFACE. 






II 



ARMERS have do secrets, says the author of "Ten Acres 
fo^^y Enough," (James Miller, New York, 1865,) a middle sized 
S book, the most attentive perusal of which I would recom- 
mend to every laud owner, and he is in this respect, as well 
as in so many others, perfectly right It was the very maxim which 
benefited me myself a good deal, and thus being one of its nu- 
merous pateutees, I thankfully impart to others, for their benefit, 
what I have learned of small fruit culture during a decade of prac- 
tice under the guidance of my venerable parent, and, at the same 
time, pay my filial respect and duty. 

No land owner whatever should be without small fruit growing, 
and cultivating one or the other of its branches, at least for his own 
Jamily use, In summer there is, I guess, no more agreeable dish than 
a plate of strawberries, raspberries, grapes, etc., and in winter, per- 
haps no greater table relish than that afforded by small fruit pre- 
serves. Besides, last but not least, everybody ought to know that 
small fruits, grapes and vegetables prevent, fever and bowel com- 
plaints, which are only too often induced by eating too much meat 
in the warm season. 

On the other hand, I caauofe recommend the cultivation of small 
fruits for export, but only to such land owners as live in the vicinity 
of large cities, or railroad stations where way trains stop and would 
take their baskets and boxes on board, or steamboat landing on 
navigable rivers and canals, which connect their regions with one or 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE 37 

two principal market places, or seabord harbors situated on the track 
of transatlantic steamer lines. New Jersey stands foremost among 
the States in this respect;. Virginia and New York are next. 

Far off from the great commercial, industrial, or political centers, 
particularly at the far West, where, by the-by, the poor farmer is so 
heavily taxed, not by the township, state and federal authorities, 
but by greedy monopolizing railroad companies whose excessive 
freight tariffs seem to be as many unconstrainable impositions, that, 
for instance, at the very moment of my writing this little volume, 
the westerly settlers of Minnesota imd Nebraska are compelled to 
take the nondescript price of ten cents per bushel for their No. 1 
Indian corn, whilst it brings in the market of New York 67 cents. 
Well, at the far West small fruit growing for export would not be 
well done to advise, and the farmer better confines himself to culti- 
vating a nice selection for family use only. 

Twenty years ago our principal markets being stocked chiefly 
with berries from the woods and roadsides, small fruit culture 
surely is not very old yet in this country, but since it is apparent 
that the net profits of one acre in small fruit sometimes amount to 
as much as ten acres in corn, wheat, rye, or oats would bring, and 
since barren New Jersey was seen to become a rich garden under 
the blissful hands of her laborious fruit culturists, it has rapidly 
become more general, and I presume those farmers in the Eastern, 
Middle and Western States, (those at the far West excluded, how- 
ever,) who are still without berries in their gardens and fields, to be 
in a Horace Greeley minority. 

But, nevertheless, small fruit growing should still become more 
general. It repays labor and land, unless you neglect making con- 
stant war upon the hosts of weeds, and calling to mind the old Eng- 
lish proverb, 

One year's seeding 

Makes seven years' weeding, 

As for soil, every kind of it except totally barren grounds and 
those which are constantly under water, can be adapted to berry - 
culture, particularly so by means of careful labor and rich manure. 

Now, a husband who wants to refresh himself, his wife and chil- 
dren, as well as every kinsman and employee belonging to his 
household during the hot season without interuption, with all kinds 



38 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

of berries, one after the other, should raise strawberries, raspberries, 
blackberries, currants, gooseberries and grapes, and his supplies of 
fresh fruit will never give out before the ends of the season. 

Finally, not much scholarship is wanted for this purpose. Com- 
mon sense, together with incessant labor will give the victory over 
every obstacle and any disappointment, and the ends attained will 
be plenty of greenbacks in your wallet, or plenty of luscious fruits 
upon your table, or both. Therefore go ahead, husband. 



Berries versus Alcohol 



Just now the temperance question is up before the country, and it 
is apparent to every thinking man who is not blindfolded with con- 
tagious prejudices, that it needs must very soon become burning, 
since the annals of our criminal courts show to evidence that the 
rum shop is a, perhaps the, principal source of crime, and our poor 
houses read whole chapters on the delapidation of family fortune 
because of pater familias being a habitual drunkard. But, methinks, 
our temperance societies, although their endeavors to check the evil 
must be considered as good in a general view, go too far indeed, and 
their practice does not at all appear right well to the point. Some 
of our license laws are even monstrous, and instead of hitting the 
bull's eye, go amiss, i. e., beyond the aim. 

The human tribes of this post-deluvian world since Noah have 
enjoyed their fermented beverages without being much injured in 
their physical systems. Barbarism, semi-barbarism and civilized 
nations put their feet in the footsteps of their ancestors, as far as this 
matter is concerned. Our Savior did not dislike wine at Cana, al- 
though he may have baptized it a little with water, instead of fire; 
the old Egyptians, Hebrews, Persians, Greeks and Romans were 
found of the fermented or natural juice of vine grapes ; our German 
ancestors enjoyed their beer long before Julius Caesar crossed the 
Rhine; indeed every historical nation reads a lecture to our tem- 
perance apostles well worthy of being listened to, in stating that 
the prohibition of all beverages, except pop and water, is unques- 
tionable nonsense. Moreover, every sensible physician of our day 
will affirmatively testify to the truth of the following maxims, viz : 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 39 

everybody, and the working men in particular, now and then wants 
a stimulation, and hilarity, induced by a moderate use of poisonless 
beverages, is a promoter and improver of health. 

On the other hand, the members of the temperance societies are 
perfectly right to step into our legislative halls, and make war upon 
all poisoning liquors, but I cannot see that good beer, ale, wine and 
cider belong to this class. To be sure, I cannot avoid putting all 
adulterated and drugged beverages on the same index, but, at the 
same time, I beg pardon to advise the extremists, although uncalled 
for, that they better follow the example of the old Fatherlandish 
temperance societies, which prohibit the use of whiskey, brandy, arac, 
rum, and all compound liquors only. This, meseems, is the only 
possible road to victory, *. e., to conquer the seemingly indomitable 
inclination to imbibing distilled liquors to excess. Preventive meas- 
ures against the yellow jack and cholera-morbus are not found to 
be out of order ; the sale of poisons is restricted and limited ; why 
should not the prohibition of all poisoned and drugged liquors in- 
volve a sound sanitary policy ? 

Moral powers and influences eventually don't suffice to uproot 
the inveterate intemperance in regard to the use of all kinds and 
brands of benzine, and they are as powerless against those liq- 
uors as against murder, adultery, theft, robbery, burglary, misde" 
meanor, and other crimes. Therefore, the State by way of legislation 
is not only entitled, but also, I think for one, strictly obliged to 
bring her authorities to bear upon the question. 

I expect now to show that all distilled whiskies and compound 
liquors are poisonous ; be it said, at the same time, however, that all 
fermented drinkables, such as wine, cider, ale and beer, are not at 
all, or, at least, in so small a degree that their moderate use may be 
judged entirely harmless, particularly so, if they have gone only 
through upper-fermentation, (beer vacillates both ways). 

When, some centuries ago, a reverend physician of Southern 
France invented the distillation of spirits, he designated them to be 
by the Latin name of aqua vitae, i. e., water of life, a medicine only, 
and liquor remained for a long time in this harmless position, since 
imbibing it to excess is of a recent date. Now, it is a fact that fer- 
mentation developes no venomous matter, but distillation does, and 
another fact is that wines contain much less alcohol than liquors. 
Hock, for instance; contains one-half spirits, Madeira one-eighth, 



40 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

whiskey one-third, rum, arac and compound liquors even two-fifths 
to one-half. Besides the vinous acid of the wine neutralizes its spir- 
its, whilst, on the other hand, a^distilled liquors needs must contain 
a certain quantity of rot-gut oil and copper salt, both of which in- 
gredients are not less poisonous as morel and opium ; so said Hufe- 
land the late famous and popular German physician. 

All these pernicious ingredients together irritate and finally 
destroy the nerves, impair digestion and appetite, check man's spir- 
itual powers, kill the last spark of sensibility for the good, holy and 
divine, promote sensuality, feed everything beast-like in man, de- 
stroy the image of God, together with every sound plank in the 
platform mankind has been placed upon ere now under the heavenly 
shelter of state, church, society and family, lead to irreligiousness, 
immorality and discontentment of every description, and finally to 
mania potu, suicide or homicide, to the poorhouse or penitentiary, 
in one word, on the devil's road to hell. 

Therefore I most cordially agree with every temperance man in 
checking the evil done through distilled and drugged liquors, but, at 
the same time, I dare say that the evil done by these extremists who 
declaim against the use of all, even fermented, liquors, in an indi- 
rect regard is almost as great as that directly committed by habitual 
drunkards, because they would thus deter a host of well-meaning 
sensible men from being or becoming coefficient in their noble task, 
by participation. 

Those extremists don't seem to know, or even be willing to learn, 
that berries, be it vine grapes or small fruit berries, are the most 
valuable allies in their raid upon distilled liquors which, by-the-by, 
are nowhere worse and more full of foul play than in America, and, 
yet those innocent berries are pioneers of temperance right to the 
point. 

Small fruit of every description can be made into wine without 
the addition of spirits. Mr. J. P. Preyer was, as far as I know, the 
first American who introduced such genuine and pure berry wines 
into the market for sale. This was in 1869, and since that time it 
has been shown that they are marketable. Now I ask, can any 
sensible temperance man have an objection to these innocent pure 
juices ? I should think not. To be sure, I don't expect to appeal 
to a certain half-crazy associate judge of Indiana county, Pa., who 
some years ago, had his apple trees cut down, in order to prevent 
their fruit from being made into cider, certainly not. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 41 

Pure berry wines are, like unadulterated grape juices, beneficial 
and not injurious to mankind. Every learned naturalist and good 
christian will say so. So did Charles Linne, (1707 — 1775,) the 
great Swedish naturalist and botanist, who cured his rheumatism 
and gout through drinking strawberry wine freely, and eatinu straw- 
berries plenty. So did Oliver Goldsmith, the famous rover and 
English poet, in his "Vicar of Wakefield, ,, published in 1766, and 
so do the sober and industrious Dutch Pennsylvanians who, prob- 
bly induced by the recommendation of the Philanthropic Society of 
Philadelphia, in 1771, imbibe their home-made currant wine since a 
century. 

Therefore, ye friends of human welfare. I put the heading of 
"Berries vs. Alcohol" over this chapter. And now if you want to 
"put a head" on that big, overgrown, national American passion of 
imbibing poisonous fluids in large killing doses, don't be extremists ! 
Les extremes se touchent. Mind you, that habitual drunkards can 
be saved by total abstinence from drinking distilled liquors only ; 
they can stick to such a pledge of total abstinence, but they cannot 
as it is, keep their promise of temperance after the extremist fashion. 
I conclude this chapter with a quotation from the bible, since I am 
full aware that our temperance men like to settle down upon the 
solid rock of that holy book. St. Paul wrote in his apostolic letter 
to Timothy, (I. Tim. V. 23,) "Drink no longer water, but use a 
little wine for thy stomach's sake, and thine often infirmities." 

To whom is St. Paul not an authority in such matters ? Or are 
our contemporary disciples of the great gentile apostle wiser than 
their master, and even Jesus Christ, the changer of water into wine, 
at Cana, in Galilee? 



I. The Strawberry. 



Strawberries are widely known, and there is perhaps no kind of 
berries which has been more successfully raised all over the country. 
They are the first and most delicious of our summer fruits. Any 
soil good for potatoes and corn, is good enough for them, and I dare 
say that a bed of strawberries is no more trouble than a bed of po- 
tatoes. All classes of society relish this luscious small fruit, and it 
is a matter of fact that it contains sanative powers. Only remind 



42 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Linne. Its acid is pleasant, and compounded with the aromatic 
bitters of its seed, this blissful fruit, either in its natural condition, 
or made into wine or jellies, must be considered a remedy in several 
cases of disease. 

Strawberries are either bi-sexual, i. e., perfect, or pistillate, but 
I cannot recommend the cultivation of the latter, because they must 
be grown together with bi-sexuals, whilst these can be gr^wn alone. 
There has been much ado about the sex of strawberries, until finally 
the natural principle of "no seeds, no berries," was found out to be 
true. 

In addition I will say, that strawberries belong to the large 
family of roses, and, like these, are most injured by weeds In 
order to theoretically assist in keeping them aloof, I expect to re- 
mind the reader of the old golden rule, 

Let no weed, 
Go to seed, 

A. Varieties of the Strawberry. 

The strawberries are naturally divided into the two principal 
classes of Bi-sexuals and Pistillates, and their varieties are very 
numerous. 

I. Bi-sexnals. 

1. The Boston Pine, or Bartlett, introduced by C. M. Hovey, of 
Boston, Mass., a good and early market variety, has very long fruit- 
stalks, and grows well both in heavy and light soils. Berry large 
or medium-sized, conical form„light crimson color. Flesh slightly 
colored, firm, sweet, and excellent. Plants very vigorous, product- 
ive and hardy. Its flavor is Unexcelled, particularly for amateurs. 

2. The Agriculturist, originated with Seth Boyden, at Newark, 
N. J., through hybridizing the Green Prolific and Peabody's Seed- 
ling from Georgia, in 1863 ; is grown in every soil, on enormous 
stools, was formerly called the "Queen of Strawberries," but after 
many years' experiment and trial it was found out that in warm 
weather its fruit fast decreases in size, its flesh becomes infirm and 
loses of its original flavor. Therefore, and because the berries are 
rather soft for transportation to a distant market, its cultivation 
has not proved very profitable. Fruit very large, light reddish, 
conical, with long neck. Flesh deep red, sweet, and rich. Leaves 
large, thick and dark. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 43 

3. The Brooklyn Scarlet, originated with Andrew S. Fuller, at 
Ridgewood, N. J., in 1859; got one of the three New York Tribune 
prizes, and is considered the best among its equals Fruit bright 
scarlet, medium-sized, conical, with neck. Flesh sweet, rich, rather 
soft, and highly flavored. Plant a dwarf grower, but very hardy, 
vigorous and productive, with a very large stool. For home use 
the best variety. 

4. Downer's Prolific, originated with I. S. Downer, at Elkton, 
Ky., was a long time considered as the most profitable market sort* 
only equaled by Wilson's Albany, and famous for its extreme hardi- 
ness and early crop ; planted in hills, it is also enormously product- 
ive, and its berries reach double the size of those raised in rows. 
Fruit round, medium-sized, light scarlet. Flesh rather soft, acid 
and highly perfumed. A certain yielder every year 

5. The Green Prolific, or Newark Prolific, originated with Seth 
Boyden, at Newark, N. J. ; was a pretty long time a good deal 
thought of, because it can stand the coldest winters and hottest 
summers, but its medium-sized, round, orange scarlet berries are 
very sour and far inferior to the Wilson ; their flesh is too soft, and 
although the plant is vigorous and grows in light soil, this variety 
must be pronounced worthless. Late. 

6. The Lady Finger, originated with Benjamin Prosser, at 
Burlington, N. J.; is an excellent variety of delicate flavor. Fruit 
large, elongated and brilliant scarlet. Flesh very firm and. good. 
It is as hardy as vigorous and prolific. 

7. Wilson's Albany, originated with John Wilson, Albany, N. 
Y., one of the oldest, widely reputed varieties, one of the pioneers 
of strawberry culture; is still at present as to quantity the principal 
variety in the New York market, although it is too sour but for 
culinary purposes. Dry weather is injurious to it, and decreases 
the size of its berries. As a pretty reliable variety of much popu- 
larity which its badly mixed condition hardly deserves, it is grown 
everywhere, all over the country, but it requires a frequent renewal 
of its beds. For canning and preserving it is the superior of all. 
Fruit large, conical, very acid, dark crimson. Flesh tinged with 
red. Yields enormous crops, but not early in the season, since it 
commences ripening no sooner than about June 7th. 

8. The Jenny Lind, originated with Isaac Fay, in Massachu- 
setts, is one of the earliest sorts, very reliable as a fruiter, and 



44 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

therefore valuable for market and home use. Fruit small to me- 
dium, conical, rich crimson. Flesh finely flavored. Plant admira- 
bly hardy. 

9. The Triomphe de Gand, the most extensively cultivated for- 
eign variety, introduced not long before 1858, is grown only in 
hills. Imported from Flanders. It does surely not grow every- 
where, particularly not in very light soil, but where it was grown 
and had plenty of sunlight and air, general satisfaction was the 
result. Heavy mulching in warm weather is required ; no runners. 
Fruit very large and uniform, sometimes five inches in circumfer- 
ence, irregular and often flattened, coxcomb-like, bright crimsom, 
late, keeper. Flesh deliciously flavored, firm and crisp. Plant 
thrifty, hardy and a vigorous grower, retaining its full, beautiful 
color and firmness. It is very good for distant transportation, and 
commands a very high market price, double that of the Wilson. 
Received two New Jersey prizes in 1862 and 1864. 

10. The Jucunda, perhaps the most excellent of European va- 
rieties, W9S cultivated with great skill and care, particularly by I. 
Knox, at Pittsburgh, Pa., since 1860, and goes also by the name of 
Knox's 700. It was introduced in 1865. Fruit conicaL very large 
(sometimes ten or twelve fill up a pint measure), bright light crim- 
som, bristling all over with golden yellow seeds Flesh white, pale 
salmon centre, firm to the centre, excellently flavored, rich and 
juicy. Fruit stems stout and stocky, bear well up their berries. 
Being a good grower, it does not require more care than other vari- 
eties to which I think it in many respects far superior. Almost 
every blossom forms fruit, hence its great productiveness. I highly 
recommend the Jucunda for family use and transportation, since I 
experienced its keeping well. At Lakeview we raised a specimen 
of five inches in circumference, grown in a rich, deep, well-drained 
clayey loam, in an undulating, almost hilly region. John H. 
Jenkins calls the Jucunda "the prince among strawberries," and I 
think him perfectly right. In the market it commands the highest 
price. Plant it in heavy soil. 

11. The Sterling is a new and valuable variety raised with Mr. 
Crawford, at East Cleveland, Ohio, which grows in any soil and is 
very productive. Fruit very large, crimson, firm and of good 
flavor. This variety is hardy and prolific, and warranted to be su- 



tiRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 45* 

perior to the Wilson and Agriculturist. Messrs. Mongrief & Lodge,, 
at Cleveland, Ohio, are sole agents for Sterling plants. The first 
two year old plants were sold in 1873. 

12. The President Wilder, introduced by Col. Wilder, Presi- 
dent of the American Poraological Society, belongs to the Alpine 
or Wood Strawberry kind, is a late variety and called the "prince 
of strawberries." t It withstands heat and cold, and is hardy, robust 
and productive. A single berry sometimes measures five inches in 
circumference and weighs over one ounce. Berries very large, 
conical, crimson scarlet. Flesh rosy white, very juicy, rich and 
sprightly flavored. New. 

13. The Early Virginia, or Large Early Scarlet, is the earliest 
fine variety, vigorous and productive. Berries medium-sized, round- 
ish, bright scarlet. Flesh tender and richly flavored. 

14. The Black Defiance, recently introduced by E. W. Durand, 
of Irvington, N. Y., is a hybrid from the Green Prolific and Tri- 
omphe de Gaud and was prized in New Jersey. Can stand any 
weather. Flesh firm and very aromatic. Plant hardy and pro- 
ductive. 

15. The Late Prolific, one of E. W. Durand's hybrids, is a 
promising new market variety which received the first premium of 
1870. Berries large, bright crimson. Flesh firm and sprightly 
flavored. Foliage dark green. Plants hardy and vigorous. Ri- 
pens late in the season. 

16. The Champion, a seedling from the Green Prolific, origin- 
ated with Robert Trumbull, at New Rochelle, N. Y., the giant 
among the strawberries, measures not seldom six inches in circum- 
ference, is globular and of dark crimson color. 

Remarks — For a start I would recommend the Brooklyn Scar- 
let, Lady Finger, Wilson's Albany, Jenny Lind, Jucunda, Ster- 
ling, President Wilder and Late Prolific. Of the Pistillates the 
Fillmore is undoubtedly the best. 

II. Pistillates. 

1. The Fillmore, originated with Samuel Feast, at Baltimore, 
Md., is by pretty good authorities considered almost equal to the 
Jucunda, but requires under any circumstance deep, rich soil, and 
can only be grown in hills. Fruit very large, roundish, when ripe 
almost black, or dark crimson, as the Tartarian cherry, uniform . 



46 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Flesh of exquisite flavor, sweet and rich, a pretty good keeper. 
Hardy and productive. Although popular iu the market, it is not 
very popular with growers general. James S. Negley says of it, 
"It possesses all the good qualities of a perfect strawberry, and lam 
surprised that this berry is not more largely cultivated." 

2. The Hovey, originated with C. M, Hovey, at Boston, Mass., 
in 1827, the oldest American variety under culture, is being largely 
grown in the New England States. Fruit very large, conical, light 
crimson, handsome and sprightly, a vigorous strong grower, requires 
plenty of room. 

3. MeAvoys Superior received a $100 prize by the Cincinnati 
Horticultural Society in 1850. Fruit roundish, very large, with 
uneven surface and prominent projections, dark crimson. Flesh 
dark red, soft and sweet, juicy, rich and delicious. Pretty hardy 
to fertilize. Good crops are scarce. 

4. Russell's Prolific, originated with H. Russell, at Seneca Falls, 
N. Y., in 1856, is a late blossomer and fruiter, and similar to the 
Superior, but not the same. Fruit very large, nearly round, irreg- 
ular surface, bright crimson. Flesh lighter color than the skin, 
firm, sweetly flavored. Leaves large. The best quality grows in 
sandy soils. This variety is best to be planted together with the 
Jucunda and Triomphe de Gand, which are also late blossomers. 



B. Historical Sketch. 



The classic authors Pliny, Ovid and Virgil surely refer to small 
fruit, but not to its culture, and thus it appears that the ancients 
took their supply of small fruit berries from the woods and road- 
sides, only where they grew as savages. But since the commence- 
ment of the XV century, when garden culture became more gen- 
eral in Europe, strawberries, currants and gooseberries were grown 
in gardens also. In America people took to the same horticultural 
pursuits no sooner than forty-live years ago when the New Eng- 
lander Hovey introduced the first pistillate strawberry variety, but 
its cultivation, and that of other kinds lingered in a certain degree 
until the better half of the instant century commenced its course on 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 47 

the roads of progress at a double-quick cadence, and its develop- 
ment received a new impetus when the Federal Post Department 
finally took to sending plants, cuttings and seeds by mail. 

As for kinds, the Alpine, also a native of North America and 
both Canadas, during the mediaeval ages, was extensively grown from 
Greece to Scotland, particularly in France, England and Flanders. 
This kind of berry was already famous, in 1482, for its refined cul- 
ture subjected to in the Bishop of Ely's garden at Holborn, Eng- 
land, where it was plentifully grown by the name of the wood straw- 
berry. 

About 1,600, the Virginian, most common in North American 
woods and fields, and renowned for its fragrancy and aromatic 
sprightliness, as well as long and wiry perennial roots, was intro- 
duced into England. Most of our own varieties belong to this stock. 
But in Europe it was superseded by the larger and sweeter South 
American, (grandiflora) which was found by the French traveler 
Frezier, near Quito, at the foot of the Andes, in 1716, and is at 
present valued highest in the transatlantic countries. In our lati- 
tudes this southern kind cannot stand cold winters and dry, hot 
summers ; moreover in can be grown only in hills, because its tender 
roots always require fresh soil drawn up to them ; hence its being 
neglected. 

In 1809, Mr. Keen, of London, England, succeeded in raising 
the first pistillate strawberrry, and introduced it as the Hautbois ; 
into his shoes stepped C. M. Hovey, of Massachusetts, in 1827, when 
he had originated a similar kind which he baptised after his own 
name, and fortunately managed to give a great impetus to the 
American strawberry culture. 

Finally, what this famous New England horticulturist tfid by 
means of his excellent pistillate varieties, did some later John Wil- 
son with his bi-sexual Albany, grown in the state of New York ; 
and since that time refined strawberry culture has become more gen- 
eral and extensive than ever before, and yet strawberry culture was 
still, in 1860, when Rev. J. Knox, of Pittsburgh, Pa., spoke in a 
high tone of it in Cincinnati, so much behind time that this 
great horticulturist whom Hon. James S. Negley, M. C, of Shady 
Side, Pa., another horticultural scientist, call the "strawberry king," 
found only incredulous listeners. His strawberry exhibition, which 
every year in the month of June, occasions the conflux of all the 



48 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

famous horticulturists of the Union, at the "Smoky City," is now, 
so to say, the standard and standard bearer of American strawberry 
culture Vogue la gatere. 

C. Soil and its Preparation. 

I cannot help repeatedly saying that any soil rich enough to 
grow garden vegetables, or corn, will grow good strawberries also ;. 
sandy laud, however, is preferable to heavy clay and light sandy 
soil ; but, mind you, this kind of small fruit always falls in any 
soil a victim to neglect. Strawberries require much more moisture 
than grapes, indeed, but a wet underground necessitates under-drain- 
ing, notwithstanding, and just so, as it is a fact that well prepared 
cooked food is much more nutritious for man and domestic animal 
than raw food, (nineteen pounds of cooked meat as to quality is not 
considered less than fifty pounds of raw,) so in the vegetable king- 
dom, a careful preparation of the soil is one of the principal requi- 
sites for growing fine crops. Neglect is the mother of failure, and 
not very seldom becomes apparent the average truth of the hus- 
bandly say, "too many acres, too little care." Neglected soil settles- 
together, and neither sunshine, nor rain, nor fertilizing matters can 
enter. Drought is a perpetual danger and can only be turned away 
through deep plowing and thus keeping the strawberry buds con- 
stantly moist. 

The soil chosen should be plowed, cross-plowed, and subsoiled 
to a depth of 16 to 20 inches, and, perhaps with the only exception 
of the rich prairie soil at the west, richly manured. Naturally 
rich soil don't want the same richness of manure as meagre ground; 
of course not, but it is still a general rule that faith in manure is,, 
so to say, a good traveling staff on the road to success in strawberry 
growing, and a well-worked, pulverized soil the best border of each 
and every one of its varieties. 

As to the different kinds of manure, I don't hesitate to state, or 
suppose that the "saint of the barnyard," i. e. the cow, is the best 
manufacturer, although it is but just to recommend the hog also. 
Old and thoroughly decomposed baruyard manure, especially if 
housed or covered, is the best fertilizer in our case, and if there 
should not be enough of it, mix one load of this dung with two- 
loads of muck, leaves or sods into a compost heap which will re- 
quire three months for its decomposing process, and ought to be 
turned over at least every month. It depends, however, upon the 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 49' 

kind of soil, to choose and apply the proper kind of manure. The 
above compost, with an addition of ashes, is good for sandy soil, 
and unmixed barnyard dung will work well in heavy soil, whilst 
coarse manures should never be applied to light soil, and as well 
ashes as lime never alone, but only mixed together with muck, or 
leaf mould, or both. Besides, mixtures of barnyard manure and 
ashes are not recommenclable. Ashes, lime, spent hops, bran, cas- 
tor, bonedust, guano, and superphosphate are beneficial additions 
indeed, and so are marl-manure, leaf mould and muck ; every 
strawberry grower, however, should be careful as to their applica- 
tion. Leaf mould contains three times as much nitrogen as stable 
manure; a pinch of guano compost will feed a hill, and half a 
peck of marl-manure around each hill and some scattered around 
is excellent food for the whole strawberry tribe. After all, in every 
case experience is the mother of wisdom. Let an old farmer con- 
clude this short lecture on manuring with his say, "feed the straw- 
berry like a young pig." 

In regard to location, open and airy grounds, because of their 
being possessed of less danger of frost, are preferable. For late 
varieties a northerly situation, and for early ones a southerly warm 
exposure should be selected any way. 

Last, but not least, the entire and thorough extirpation of weeds 
is most peremptorily required. There is a host of them ; wet 
weather and dry weather, cold weather and warm weather weeds,, 
and I surely know that farmers sometimes would say, "it is as well 
attempting at killing weeds as flies, they don't harm ; " but their 
say is not true at all. It is rather possible to kill the weeds in his 
garden or fields, if a man only don't allow them to mature a new 
crop of seeds, that is, if he destroy them before their ripe seed is> 
self-sowing broadcast. Among others, the horse-weeder, which can 
be purchased at $6.00, is their greatest enemy, it cutting them off 
below the ground, and throwing them up to wilt. But if he should 
want to resuscitate the late Mr. Weed and his innumerable kins- 
manship, he might only use barnyard-litter for winter protection, 
and next spring, about Easter, the nice little weed seedlings con- 
tained in that litter will most certainly celebrate their resurrection, 
and compel the surprised husband to do the work of weeding over 
again. 



50 



TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 



Remarks — Manures being of great importance, I will add a 
few remarks on this subject. The best kind is that which presents 
to the growing plant all the principles of its composition, and, at 
the same time, the best method of manuring is that which restores 
to the soil all substances removed from it by the crops. There is 
much difference between the plants ; the vine, for instance, con- 
tains much potash, the wheat much phosphate, and grass and clover 
contain much lime. For comparison, look at the following table 
which shows only the principal ingredients of the ashes of a few 
plants, in percentage : 



1. BEANS. 

Carbonic acid 1.0 

Sulphuric acid 1.5 

Phosphoric acid 34 2 

Lime 5.1 

Magnesia 8.6 

Potassa 45.2 

2. PEAS. 

Carbonic acid 0.5 

Sulphuric acid 4.7 

Phosphoric acid 30 1 

Lime 10.1 

Magnesia 11.9 

Potassa and Soda 37.8 

3. POTATOES. 

Carbonic acid 13,4 

Sulphuric acid 7.1 

Phosphoric acid 11.3 

Lime 1.8 

Magnesia 4.4 

Potassa 51.5 

Silica 5.6 

4. TURNIPS. 

Carbonic acid 14.0 

Sulphuric acid 10.9 

Phosphoric acid 6.1 

Lime 10.9 

Magnesia ..; 4.3 

Potassa and Soda 37.8 

Silica 6.4 

5. BEETS. 

Carbonic acid .16.1 

Sulphuric acid 1.6 

Phosphoric acid 6.0 

Lime , r.... 7.0 



Magnesia 4.6 

Potassa and Soda 45.0 

Silica 8.0 

6. WHEAT. 

Carbonic acid 5 

Sulphuric acid 1.0 

Phosphoric acid 47.0 

Lime 2.9 

Magnesia 15.9 

Potassa 29.5 

Silica 1.3 

7. OATS. 

Carbonic acid 1.7 

Sulphuric acid 1.0 

Phosphoric acid 14.9 

Lime 3.7 

Magnesia 7.7 

Potassa 12.9 

Silica 53.3 

8. CLOVER. 

Carbonic acid 25.0 

Sulphuric acid 2.5 

Phosphoric acid. 6.3 

Lime 24.6 

Magnesia 6.3 

Potassa 26.6 

Silica 5.3 

9. WILD PEAS. 

Carbonic acid 0.6 

Sulphuric acid 2.6 

Phosphoric acid 38.3 

Lime •• 3.0 

Magnesia 7.8 

Potassa and Soda 39.6 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 



51 



Now, the atmosphere furnishes the organic elements to the 
plants, whilst the earth and manures are to furnish them with 
earthy and alkaline salts, etc. Every plant needs nitrate of am- 
monia which, it is true, enters directly in and by means of rain 
water, but not in sufficient quantities, and therefore any manure 
which contains most nitrogen, is most desirable, of course, in its 
state of decomposition. 

Dry barnyard manure contains for instance, carbonic acid 35.8, 
hydrogen 4.2, oxygen 25.8, nitrogen 2.0, and salts and earth 30.2 
in 100 0, but its nitrogenity may be enhanced by making it liquid 
-with urinous substances. By-the by, this liquid manure should 
never be applied in the hot sun. 

The following list gives the percentage of nitrogen in fifty dif- 
ferent kinds of manure, but all of them in a state of dryness, viz : 

Mixed hog manure 3.4 

Grape cake 3.3 

Mixed horse manure 3.0 

Mixed sheep manure 3.0 

Carrot leaves 2.9 

Box (rotted branches and 

leaves) 2.9 

Montfaucon poudrette(man's 

excrements) 2.9 

Beechnut cake 2.5 



Man's urine 23.1 

Woolen rags 20 3 

Salt fish 18.7 

Feathers 17 6 

Horn clippings 15 8 

Cow hair 15.4 

Blood 15.4 

Flesh 14.2 

Maybugs 13.9 

Cracklings (dregs of rough 

suet) 12.9 

Horse urine 1 2.5 

Colombine (pigeon manure) 9.0 
English black (blood, lime 

and soot) 8.0 

Bones 7.6 

Guano 7.0 

Linseed cake 6.0 

Residue of common glue 5.6 

Walnut cake 5.6 

Barley or malt waste 4.9 

Hempseed cake 4 8 

Cotton cake 4.5 

Lupine seed 4.4 

Belloni Poudrette 4.4 

Beet leaves (panes) 4.4 

Mixed goat manure 3.9 

Cow urine 3.8 



Potato leaves 2.3 

Seaweeds , 2.3 

Cow dung 2.3 

Solid horse dung 2.2 

Animal black from sugar 

refineries 2.0 

Pea straw 2.0 

Potato pulp 1.9 

Heath leaves 1.9 

Beech leaves 1.9 

Clover roots 1.8 

Pear leaves 1.6 

Oak leaves ... 1.6 

Acacia leaves 1.5 

Coal soot 1.5 

Wood soot 1.3 

Poplar leaves , 1.2 



Soil is man's foundation, the condition precedent to his exist- 
ence. It appears rather strange that the farmer of our enlightened 



52 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

age really knows so little of this, his only foothold in God's wide 
world. As to the past, that strange appearance in the history of 
the agricultural nations may be partially explained, however, by 
the fact that ere this only ignorant men beloved the soil. But at 
the present time, after we have cast slavery and bondage behind us, 
boorish ignorance has disappeared from the homes of the farming 
peasantry, I should think. Or has it not ? 

Would every American acknowledge it as a matter of historical 
fact lhat France and especially Germany took the lead and are still 
keeping the front rank in scientific farming. Great Britain and 
Ireland, those so called free countries, whose peasantry are shackled 
with the heavy irons of half-bondage, are unfit for taking the same 
lofty standpoint, but America, the land of the free and free home- 
steads, where slavery most fortunately belongs to the past, is bound 
not to remain behind in the race of agricultural progress. 

Only he who knows his soil thoroughly can judge of and decide 

the question of what kind of manure is to be applied. 

Prior to 1789, the analysis of soil, which is a, nay, the, prece- 
dent to such knowledge was still quite embryonic. In> that revolu- 
tionary year Christoph Albrecht Rueckert, the royal Bavarian 
apothecary, of Ingelfingen, broke the ice. Schuebler's and Dr. 
Sprengel's classic words followed up his course, until, through the 
instrumentality of Thaer, of Moeglin, the great Prussian reformer 
of agriculture, a new era dawned upon the unexplored soil of Ger- 
many, where he succeeded in having the Royal Government order 
to partially analyse it on a large scale. This occurred in 1845, 
after, five years ago, Baren Von Liebig. the great Bavarian chemist, 
had inaugurated the most recent epoch of agricultural chemistry. 
Stoeckhardt, of Tharandt, Saxony, Schwartz, Boussingault, (1856,) 
the circumspect French chemist, and others followed in his foot- 
prints. 

D. Planting. 

Strawberries are planted either in the months of March, April 
and May, or in the months of August, September and October. 
Plants set in spring will bear fruit the next year without injury to 
them, but plants set in fall will bear partially the next] season with 
injury to them, This being a fact, early fall planting can only be 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE 53 

recommended, if the blossoms in spring be pinched off, thus not 
allowing them to bear fruit, which, I judge, is absolutely necessary; 
spring planting is preferable by any means. 

As I mentioned in the preceeding chapter, the soil must be 
plowed and cross-plowed to a sufficient depth, mixed with manures 
and pulverized through harrowing. After this it can be planted 
according to three principal systems, viz : in hills, rows and beds. 

I. Hill System. 

Cross-furrow out the soil both ways, as for' corn, at distances of 
two and one and one-half feet respectively, and beplant the corners, 
after the lines have been marked off with a cord of Russian hemp. 
Cut off all runners during the growing season. All kinds of graud- 
ifloras can only be grown in hills, and this system is also generally 
preferable on account of less labor and more crop. An acre would 
contain 7,260 hills, and may yield about 200 bushels of fruit p. a. 
Since old plants don't produce large berries, and the first season's 
manure stimulation only lasts three to four years ; after this period 
has elapsed, the vines should be plowed under. If a grower should 
want to pass over to the row system, he may allow the runners be- 
tween plants to grow in the second season, and thus the row system 
is initiated. 

II. Row System. 

The distance may be taken between rows at 2\ — 3, and between 
plants at 1 — 1} feet distances. 

III. Bed System. 

Each bed of four square feet is to contain two rows of two feet 
apart, and the distance between plants one foot. After two crops 
the interval between two beds can be plowed up and prepared for 
new beds, in which runners from the old beds are to take root, and 
so on vice versa, until, after three to four years, the soil will prove 
entirely exhausted. 

The planting manipulation is very easy, but care must be taken 
that the fine fibrous roots be not destroyed, and all superfluous 
leaves and runners cut off. It is well done, besides, to saturate the 
roots thoroughly with a liquid made of cow manure and spring or 
fountain water, before planting the best time of which is during 
cloudy, or even rainy weather. If the soil, however, be excessively 



54 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

dry, it must be watered, every wetting process being performed 
either early in the morning, or after sunset, and never in the hot 
sun. Spring water is better than river water. In planting the roots 
are spread out, and slightly covered up with pulverized soil. Small 
holes made with a dibble are not good ; the garden trowel is a good 
instrument to work with, and, besides, I should think that both the 
cultivator and two -pronged hoe afterwards, are better than the wa- 
tering-pot, for in abundance of natural moisture, worked through 
frequently stirring up the soil around, is far superior to that kind 
of, so to say, artificial moisture, or rather wetness, which is worked 
through watering. Sometimes plants have been puddled, particu- 
larly such as are designated for long journeys by nurserymen, who 
mixed water and soil to a thin mortar and coated them with it. In 
such a case, the coat should be washed off, and the plants refreshed 
before setting. 

As to how many times the same stools are allowed to bear fruit, 
there are two systems in vogue, viz : the annual and biennial. 

A. Annual System. 

Set the plants one by three feet, and allow them to bear one 
season, after which you have to plow them under and beplant new 
beds. 

B. Biennial System. 

The plants are put in beds of two or three rows each, 18 by 18, 
and all their runners allowed to grow ; between beds there should 
always be a path of one-half foot wide for the weeder. After two 
crops the stools are plowed under, and something is sown for one or 
two seasons. This is perhaps the best system for field culture. 

A man who wishes to grow a few strawberries in his garden for 
family use only, should always select the best varieties, such as the 
Jucunda, Agriculturists, Wilson's Albany, (contains more tartaric 
acid than others, and therefore requires a little more sugar,) Stir- 
ling, Bartlett, (a compact and hardy grower, abundant in late 
crops,) and Triomphe de Gand, the fruit of which is most delicious t 
rich and luscious, and crisp with seeds all over, as well as amazingly 
abundant in runners to be clipped off weekly. Keen's Seedling and 
the British Queen are famous English varieties, the former of which 
may be recommended like the Monthly Alpine, whose berries last 
from May until winter. It has been observed in the first place, 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 55 

that the crop from seedlings is larger than that from runners; in the 
second place, that light soil produces early berries and heavy soil 
produces late ones, and finally in the third place, that liquid ma- 
nure is perhaps the best stimulant in garden culture. 

In conclusion, I am going to enjoin a few rules for the hot-house 
culture. Hot-house strawberries always lose of their flavor by 
forcing. The Bartlett is the best variety in this respect. Set it in 
rich soil, consisting of three-fourths of old sods or turfy loam, and 
one-fourth of cow manure, thoroughly decomposed, mixed together 
and pulverized, in small pots with a hole in the bottom, and keep 
the top of its stool at two or three feet distant from the glass, by a 
temperature of 65 — 75° during the day, and 50 — 60° at night. 
Sprinkle it now and then, and don't forget that it wants air during 
the blooming season. 

But finally, I suppose that farmers will not often take to this 
kind of fancy culture. 

E. Training and Pruning. 

The culture of the dwarfy strawberry vine, the greatest height of 
which is only about six inches, like the comparatively gigantic grape 
vine, involves training and pruning, although not to such an extent. 

Commencing with the close of the growing season, the stools 
should be covered for winter protection, especially in locations where 
little snow and sudden changes of freezing and thawing are to be 
supposed, to a thickness of 1 — 2 inches, with spent hops frcm the 
brewery, (excellent against insects,) salt meadow or bog hay, pine 
leaves, clean straw, planing mill shavings, or, the best of all, fine 
cornstalks, but never with stable litter, sawdust or tan bark. Mulch- 
ing by adverse plowing is only advisable where the soil is very 
light. At the same time, the dead leaves of the vine ought to be 
removed, but pruning not to be undertaken. Spade some manure 
in, if you want to. 

In spring, remove the winter covering from the top, whilst, to 
keep the berries clean and the soil moist, it will work well, however, 
to leave part of it one foot around the stools. Remove also the 
dead leaves from the vines, and leave only two or three thriving 
leaves at the center. If late crops be wanted, the first blossoms 
must be rubbed off, a manipulation which protects the plants from 



56 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

late spring frosts, besides, and in any case large and best qualified 
berries should be desirable, as I suppose, thinning or cutting out is 
indispensible. 

In summer, the principal occupation of the strawberry-grower 
needs must be to make constant warfare upon a thousand hosts of 
the different obnoxious weeds, the extirpation of which can be at- 
tained through perseverance in using the horseweeder, cultivator, 
rake and hoe, if the weeds be not allowed to mature a new crop of 
seeds. . This assidous weeding, raking and hoeing will also be of good 
service in keeping the soil pulverized and moist without using the 
watering pot; but it is to be done with some care after the runners 
between rows, beds, hills and plants have made their appearance, 
that is to say, if they should be wanted for the sake of propagation. 
Liberal summer mulching is advisable. 

Finally, it is a conclusive rule not to work heavy clay when wet, 
and, the watering pot once used, to follow up this method of moist- 
ening the soil, or else it will prove of no avail at all. 

F. Diseases and Insects. 

Strawberries are not subject to particular chronic diseases, but 
on sudden changes of temperature, and in warm and wet weather, 
sometimes mildew and a kind of fungus called strawberry brand, 
the latter, however, late in the season, and therefore of but little 
injury, will appear. 

The following insects are injurious, viz : 

1. The Larvce of the White Grub or May Beetle. This obnox- 
ious insect hails from old dry pastures and meadows, and therefore 
none of their sods should be taken into gardens and berry fields, 
nor should old pastures ever be taken under berry-culture. The 
larvses are one and one-half inches long, three-eighth inches thick, 
white and white headed. They attack the roots, and are able to 
destroy all of them. The beetle is chestnut colored, dotted or punc- 
tured as if needled, and its breast is covered with a yellowish dawn. 
The crow, its principal enemy, eats a hundred a day, and one hun- 
dred rose bugs for breakfast, besides. 

2. The Wire Worm or Julus, a many-footed worm, is not very 
-destructive. Stirring destroys it. 

3. The Rose-slug, a small greenish worm, with a brown head, 
one-half inch long, and one-sixteenth inch in diameter, stays only 
six weeks, and is scarce on strawberry vines. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 57 

4. The Red Spider is destroyed by sulphurizing. 

5. The Plant Louse, Aphias or Green Fly would suck the juice 
out of the roots. Dry ashes, or refuse, from a tobacco factory will 
till it. 

6. The Snail. Lime would destroy it. 

Thus we see that besides crushing and picking off, lime, sulphur 
and the refuse of tobacco factories are instrumental in checking the 
diseases of the strawberries; but as far as the injurious insects are 
concerned, birds are the best physicians, and no sensible man should, 
I speak generally, allow them to be disturbed, killed, or kept off by 
hunting boobies, or naughty boys, particularly in this country where 
they are scarce enough anyhow. In speaking of birds, I especially 
intend to refer to our small-flying birds*. 

Every husband, I don't care whether large or small his real es- 
tate may be, is bound by his own interest, to take the care of making 
those friendly birds feel at home by setting out boxes, calabashes, 
squashes, and other rough contrivances for birds' nests, about his 
farm and fields. Such an open aviary would pay well. Wrens and 
blue birds take to them as robins do to the eaves of woodsheds, 
swallows to the barn, sparrows to the barn yards, and orioles to 
thickets. Birds are, through their eating millions of insects and 
worms on which they mostly live, the best friends of all those who 
plant and sow, and want to reap, and levy only a very small tax on 
the different crops. Two small birds, for instance, eat 1,000 worms 
in eight hours, and a swallow devours 550 insects a day. And what 
about the crow ? This bird seemingly so useless is one of the most 
valuable insect destroyers. 

It is pretty generally known that France suffered a great deal 
and is suffering yet from the devastation of her forests, an event 
which, by-the-by, in any country produces unfertile soil and severer 
climate, and seems to be allotted to America too, because of the 
absence of any sense in our forest destroying backwoodsmen. Now, 
that unlucky European country always vacillating between king- 
dom, empire, republic and anarchy, owes this foolish devastation not 
only to all-destroying anarchists, who misruled the land towards 
.he close of the past century, but also, and probably much more, to 
er foolish boys who every year would destroy, or take out 80 — 100 
million birds' eggs. Our legislatures should protect both birds and 
forests. 



58 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

G. When are Strawberries Ripe? 

June is the principal month of the strawberry season, although 
already about the middle of May ripe strawberries, especially from 
Virginia, where they ripen two weeks earlier, appear in the Broad- 
way saloons of New York, and, on the other hand, some kinds con- 
inue during the dog-days. Of course, I don't mean to speak of hot- 
house fruit. 

Kipeness naturally depends upon latitude, location, soil, care, 
training and varieties, but there are some early kinds," such as the 
Boston Pine or Bartlett, Jenny Lind, and Downer's Prolific, and 
odd late ones, viz : Wilson's Albany, Kussell's Prolific, the Jucunda 
and Triomph de Gand. 

As I mentioned before, rubbing off the first spring blossoms will 
most certainly procure late crops, as careful working and weeding 
will mature the berries of every variety. 

H. Propagation. 

Strawberries propagate through runners, root-divisions and 
seeds. 

1. Take runners from sound plants grown in loose open soil, 
cover them up in dry weather, start them in spring, and apply pure 
manure composed at the time of planting. 

2. Root divisions. Of varieties which grow only a few runners 
the roots may be divided and used as plants. This would be done 
in early spring. The lowest end of the old root, if it be long, is to 
be cut off, and such plants to which afterwards only one crown is 
left, are set as deep as possible. 

3. Take seed from fully ripened berries early in the morning, 
and spread it out to dry. When washed out in water, good seeds 
will sink, and the pulp remain on top. Keep the seeds until next 
spring, or sow them. A second method is this. Mix the largest 
berries with dry sand, crush the fruit, and no two seeds will stick 
together. Then sow the seed and sand into a light, mellow and 
well shaded soil, pots or boxes, cover the whole one-fourth inch 
deep, and keep it moist. Four or six weeks after sowing, trans- 
plant these settings on a wet or damp day, when they have four or 
five leaves, two by two feet, let the soil adhere to them, soak it before 
planting, and do afterwards away with the runners. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 59 

Strawberries, like grapes, can also be propagated by way of 
hybridizing, i. e., the impregnation of the stamens of, for instance, 
the Virginian tribe with the pollens of one of the grandifloras, and 
vice versa. 

It is easy to raise new varieties — their number is a legion ; but 
better ones are very difficult to grow, and disappointment is predom- 
inant The safest way of propagation, be it said in conclusion, is 
that from runners. 



II. The Raspberry. 



Raspberries are either foreign or native, aborigines or immi- 
grants. The Purple Flowering R. is found wild in high rocky 
places at the North, the White Flowering R. in Michigan and west- 
ward, and the Wild Red R. is common all over the land. But the 
cloudberry, which is grown at present on and between the high 
mountains of Maine and New Hampshire, and in both Canadas, is 
a European, and so is the European R., our most common garden 
raspberry, and chief foreign kind, which, by the name of the Rubus 
Idaeus, (Mount Ida, near Troy, Asia Minor,) was known to the old 
Greeks, and cultivated by the Romans, 1,400 years ago. The elder 
Pliny did not know yet of cultivated raspberries ; our ancestors took 
them from the woods and waysides, and it is only since the XVIII 
century that this tribe of savage berries was taken under culture. 
Since 1830 the Red Antwerp, a very good market variety, is exten- 
sively grown in America, but still in 1850 only foreign varieties 
ruled the market. 

The raspberry season lasts about six weeks, and follows the 
strawberry season. I don't think much of the overbearing varie- 
ties, which mature two crops in a season. Davison's Thornless, 
Doolittle's Black Cap and the Purple Cane are early kinds ; the 
American black is the latest variety. 

Raspberries require some richness, deep plowing and moisture of 
the soil, as well as elbow-room for the roots to run down. There is, 
however, nothing particular about the preparation of the soil but 
what has already been said on strawberries. The common red and 
white kinds, (Antwerps and Wild Reds,) thrive well in heavy clay 



60 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

and loam. The Blacks prefer light, sandy soil, but grow in heavy, 
compact grounds too. North of 41° latitude, winter protection is 
advisable. The shade of trees is not injurious. 

The amount of labor is about that required by corn, but the 
net profits amount to $150 to $200 per acre, nay, statistical annota- 
tions prove that one acre in Marlborough township, Ulster county, 
N. Y., a berry region which sends $100,000 worth of raspberries to 
New York, cleared $400 in a season. 

A. VARIETIES. 



I. Natives. 

1. The American Black grows all over the land. Fruit middle- 
sized, black, sweetly flavored, but little juice, abundance of seeds. 
It is the latest variety, and excellent for cooking. 

2. The Black Cap was found wild about 1840, by Leander 
Joslyn, of Phelps, Ontario county, N. Y., and is very thorny and 
vigorous. Fruit large, black, sweet, flavored and juicy. This very 
productive variety is extensively marketable. Nrs 3 — 5 are im- 
proved varieties of the same stamp. 

3. The Miami Black Cap hails from the Miami Valley, Ohio, 
bears large, dark brown berries, and not so many thorns as the 
Black Cap. Very hardy, productive and valuable. Late kind. 

4. Doolittle s Black Cap has double the size ©f the common 
Black Cap, and was introduced by H. H. Doolittle, of Oaks Cor- 
ners, N. Y., in 1867. Fruit dark red, very hardy and productive. 
Propagated by laying its tips. Much esteemed for cooking and 
preserving. 

5. Davidson's Thomless, introduced by Joseph Sinton, of An- 
gola, Erie county, N. Y., is ten days earlier than the common Black 
Cap, and the only thornless variety in vogue. Berries like those of 
the Black Cap. Canes strong, stalky and smooth, with only a few 
spines near the base. Very good and productive. Resembles the 
Doolittle. 

II. Purple Canes. 

This kind is also a native one, and belongs to the Black Cap 
kindred, of which it differs in its fruit, it being not dry, tough and 
peculiarly flavored, but soft, juicy and mildly flavored. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 61 

1. The Purple Cane is an enormous yielder everywhere, pro- 
duces no suckers, and is propagated from the tips of the young 
canes. One of the earliest kinds. Berry rather small, dark red, 
soft and sweet, very good for family use and market. Canes very 
strong aud almost without thorns. > 

2. The Philadelphia, is a very hardy and productive variety 
was found in or near Philadelphia, Pa., about 1835, and in the past 
twelve or thirteen years wildly cultivated, particularly in sandy 
New Jersey. Propagates from suckers. A very good market va- 
riety. Berry large, roundish, purpleish red, very juicy. Canes 
erect, strong, purple colored, almost spineless. Leaves large, dark, 
green above, and lighter beneath, very thin and tough. No winter 
protection. It is a regular bearer, and bears up its berries very 
well. Being one of the earliest pioneers, it took the lead of native 
raspberry culture. 

III. Wild Reds. 

This kind is not generally called a native one, probably because 
so many foreign varieties were crossed with it. 

1. The Kirtland, one of the best native varieties, early and 
almost without spines, quite productive and hardy, was originated 
with I. P. Kirtland, of Cleveland, O., many years ago. Berries 
middle-sized, roundish, light crimson, and flavored. Canes erect 
and pale red when the wood is ripe. 

IV. Foreigners. 

1. The Red Antwerp, brought from England to this country 
by Mr. Briggs, of Poughkeepsie, N. Y,, in 1830, is the most valua- 
ble market variety of New York State. Berry red, large, conical, 
firm, sprightly flavored. Canes short, stocky, with few spines, 
grayish when ripe. Winter protection. Not often genuine; al- 
ready in 1857^ considerable confusion was prevalent. Yielded some 
time ago $500 per acre on the Hudson river. 

2. The Belle de Fontenary, or Victoria, originated in France, is 
the best of the autumn-bearers. Berries very large, long conical, 
dark crimson, acid and good. Canes very strong, with purple 
spines. Leaves thick, dark green above and silvery white beneath. 
A very hardy and productive bearer ; a second crop in fall. Most 
of its great number of suckers should be removed as soon as they 
appear. 



62 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

3. The Clarke, a valuable seedling raised by E. E. Clarke, at 
New Haven, Conn., in 1856, is said to be perfectly hardy and very 
productive, and to withstand as well cold winters as hot summers. 
Berries large, conical, light crimson, sweet, rich and high flavored ; 
they don't drop when ripe. Canes very strong and erect, with 
white spines. Leaves like the Victoria's and very thick ; retained 
until killed by frost. 

4. The Franconia was introduced from France, in 1840, and is 
a very good market variety, but requires protection in winter. Ber- 
ries very large, conical, purplish red, richly flavored. Canes strong, 
with stout, purplish spines and large, deep green leaves. 

5. Brinckle's Orange, originated with the late Dr. D. W. 
Brinckle, of Philadelphia, Pa., before 1857, is one of the best vari- 
eties under culture, but, strange to say, not very marketable, al- 
though it is very hardy. Berries large, conical, orange-colored, 
sweet and deliciously flavored. The canes bear small white spines. 
Winter protection is required. Most recommendable for family use 
and the market. 

6. The Hornet, the largest of all raspberries, was originated 
near Paris, France, is a strong grower and very abundant bearer, 
and brings perhaps the highest price in the market. Berries large, 
conical, deep crimson, juicy and moderately firm. Canes very 
strong, erect, with long fruit stems and short, purplish spines. 

B. Planting and Training. 

Suckers and roots are the best plants, particularly such as have 
a good many small fibrous rootlets. 

The most recommendable planting time is spring at the North, 
and fall at the South where frost would not enter deeply. 

Raspberries are planted in rows, or hills, the stools generally 
four feet apart, with four to six feet distance between rows in 
which intervals potatoes, or strawberries, the latter fed with well- 
rotted wood moulds, may be raised. If two or (in gardens) four 
plants be planted in a hill, for fear that one or more plants may die, 
six feet distance between rows is required, at least. A little bone- 
dust, or poudrette will promote the growth of the plants whose up- 
per layer of roots should never be placed deeper than four inches 
below the surface. At the time of planting, every plant ought to 
be cut down close to the ground. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 63 

During the growing season the plants should never be banked 
up, and the ground as well between rows and hills as between 
plants always kept level and clear of weeds. Allowing no more 
than six to seven suckers from one stool will prove instrumental in 
getting abundant and qualified crops. 

Mulch the ground the first season, and coat every spring with 
well rotted manure. Sacrificing the summer crop means securing 
a fall crop. 

The raspberry is biennial. It canes one year, and fruits the 
next. But its roots are perennial. After the growing season is 
over, the old fruiters are cut down, and the young growers, wherever 
it is required, protected by laying them down lengthwise of the row 
and putting a shovel-full of soil upon them when their wood is 
ripe. Next spring they are taken up again with a fork and trim- 
med. 

Stakes are not necessary at all, particularly not in case a grower 
steadily takes to the better method of training. No one should al- 
low his raspberries to grow higher than three feet, and they will be 
self supporting against wind and rain. But if some one should 
choose, he may use stakes of five feet long and take to hedging in 
which case the canes a distance of two feet are allowed, or to hoop 
training (place two stakes each one foot from the stool, and fasten 
a hoop around their tops), or any kind of wire-trellising, put, for 
instance, stakes at two feet distance from every stool and bend the 
canes over. 

Such raspberry plantations can last from twelve to fifteen years. 
When broken up other crops may be raised on the same ground. 

C. Diseases. 

The raspberry is not much liable to sickly effects. Underdrain- 
ing will prevent the rust, which, roosting particularly on old and 
feeble plants, be they cultivated or wild, otherwise would cause de- 
cay in winter. 

Very few insects attack the raspberry tribe, and amongst them 
the most injurious the Black Bush Borer, is not very common. Its 
parent is one half foot long, black, with a rusty -yellow breast ; she 
lays her eggs early in August, at the base of the leaves. The thus 
besettled canes, bereft of their sap, will wither, and should always 
be cut off and buried. 



64 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

D. Propagation. 

The raspberry propagates from roots, suckers, layers and seed- 
lings. Its enormous vitality ranks next to that of the blackberry, 

1. Treat raspberry seeds like strawberry seeds, as far as propa- 
gation is concerned. 

2. Layers. Single bud cuttings from two to three inches long 
are perhaps better than suckers, and may be mulched with dry and 
porous soil, or kept in a cool dry place. Boxes with small holes in 
the bottom, buried on a dry knoll, and covered with one or two 
inches of soil, are good layer preserves, 

3. Suckers. Bend down the suckers, and cover their tips with 
soil one foot deep. Cut them off for planting, from August until 
the middle of September. In two or three weeks they will root. 
During the winter these plants must be heeled in. 

4. Boots. In fall dig down around the stools at a distance of 
one foot, and thus sever from it the roots in the ground, which will 
throw up suckers the next spring. These are excellent plants. 
Those roots may be divided again by spading down a second time, 
so that one foot be their length. The old stool should be entirely 
removed, and its place leveled. 



III. The Blackberry. 



The blackberry, a relative to the raspberry tribe, in the diseases 
and parasital insects of which it also participates, is in the berriless 
season when raspberries are gone, a real delicacy and on account 
of its intensive vitality, the hardest thing to kill, and the easiest 
small fruit to cultivate. 

About 150 species are known, but America is the only country 
in which the blackberry is under culture ; therefore foreign varie- 
ties generally are inferior to our native ones which yield enormous 
and beautiful crops all over the land from Maine to the Gulf of 
Mexico and the mouth of the Columbia River. 

The cut-leaved was the first variety taken into cultivation, about 
1830, but at the present time it is scarcely worth growing. As the 
principal pioneer the New Rochelle or Lawton, found wild in 1834, 
is to be mentioned. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 65 

The blackberry is one of the healthiest fruits, and although it 
be inferior in price to the raspberry, and its gathering obstructed 
by a multitude of strong spines, the profits derived from it are not 
less than those from raspberry plantations, because its enormous 
crops bring up the rear. 

Generally treated like the related raspberry, the blackberry re- 
quires deeply spaded, rich and rather dry, sunny borders, and is 
very fond, for instance, of suds from the family wash; for full ma- 
turity the berries want all the sun. It is true, this tribe requires 
rather dry soil, but to presume that it wants less manure than its 
kinsman, is a mistake altogether, and may it be reminded at once 
that no cultivated plant, whatever be its name, or nature, is fond 
of weeds. Weeding stirs the soil, and this stirring is, at the same 
time, beneficial to the whole berry family, if it be done with care, so 
as not to injure the roots of the main stalk. 

As to gathering, I would enjoin the observation that blackber- 
ries, like raspberries, should never be picked before the morning dew 
is off; picked with dew on, they would not keep well. Immediately 
after strawberries and raspberries they are ripe, and continue the 
berry season. In productiveness they outshine every other berry, 
the historical fact being before us that a single stool has borne 1,800 
ripe berries, and an acre of New Jersey soil once yielded 2,000 
quarts in a season 

It would not do to have the canes and shoots grow their own way ; 
they reach a height of from twenty to twenty-four feet. Plant in 
rows, at eight feet distance between the rows and plants. Allow 
only three vigorous canes in a cluster or hill. Don't plow between 
rows after the second year, when you may plant potatoes and straw- 
berries in the spaces ; stop all suckers between rows. As soon as 
the canes are two feet high, nip all the tips, so that the stalks in 
July be not over three or four feet, and the laterals about one foot 
long. After picking, which begins about July 20, and continues, 
with the late varieties, until September, the fruiting canes should be 
cut down to the ground, and all superfluous foliage removed from 
the growers, which will be fruiting canes the next season. Where 
winter protection is necessary, the fruiters are to be laid down in 
fall, and covered up with one foot of, or more, dirt. 

In conclusion, I would say, that at a height of three feet, no stak- 
ing is required, because the canes or stalks are stocky enough to sup- 
port themselves against the fall and winter winds. 



66 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

Varieties. 

1. The Dorchester, a very early and abundant bearer, was in- 
troduced by Josiah Lovett, of Beverly, Mass., in 1850, after he had 
tried it eight years, and has since proved to be an excellent market 
variety. Fruit large, oval, sweet, aud deep black. Canes vigorous 
and quite hardy. As soon as they are ripe they turn black. Ripe 
early in August. 

2. The Kitlatinny, at present the best variety for general culti- 
vation, was found wild by Mr. Wolverton, in the Kittatinny moun- 
tains, of New Jersey, about 1845. It is earlier than the Lawton, 
immediately follows the Wilson, and continues four to five weeks. 
A strong and robust bearer, and as hardy as 'productive, Berries 
deep shining black, when ripe, large, conical, sweet, rich, and of 
excellent flavor. It is only since 1865 that this berry is more ex- 
tensively cultivated. Winter protection seldom required. 

3. The New Rochelle or Lawton, the most renowned amongst 
the blackberries, was found by Lewis A. Seacor, of New Rochelle, 
N. Y., in 1834, as a savage of the fields Fruit very large, oval, 
jet black, very juicy, and pretty sweet, very soft and excellently 
flavored, when fully ripe. No sooner than a few days after the ber- 
ries have become black, they are perfectly ripe. It is a late variety 
and keeper, a strong and vigorous grower, and very productive, but 
it is required to keep its borders moist and mulched, or else the 
latest berries will remain unripe. Picking lasts from six to eight ' 
weeks, all through August. Its canes are tender and need winter 
protection. At one time, eight bushels of fruit have been gathered 
from forty stools. 

4. Wilson's Early, discovered by John Wilson, of Burlington, 
N. J., in 1854, is perhaps the best early variety, the crop of which 
only lasts two weeks. Fruit very large, oval, black, quite firm, 
sweet and rich. Canes strong, roundish, and sometimes creeping. 
This variety was formerly called the Dewberry. 

5. Newman's Thomless, introduced by Jonas Newman, of Ulster 
County, N. Y., is highly appreciated, because of its being almost 
without spines, and dwarfy, since it grows no higher but three to 
four feet. Not very productive. Fruit middle-sized, black, a little 
acid. Canes round, slender, with small spines, or quite smooth. 
Early in August. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 67 

6. The Crystal White, a very peculiar new variety from the 
West, introduced about 1865, bears yellowish-white fruit of excel- 
lent quality, and very narrow leaflets, which are almost oblong. 



IV. The Currant. 



The currant, a delicious and very salubrious fruit, on low shrubs, 
the jellies of which may be condensed, and, being the best refresh- 
ment on ship- board, transported all over the world, grows wild in 
all the United States, and both Canadas, as well in cold, damp 
woods and swamps, as on highlands, but almost all our best culti- 
vated varieties are derived from the red and black currants, natives 
of Northern Europe and Siberia, which were taken into cultivation 
in France, towards the end of the XVI century, and thought to be 
gooseberries. Our natives are too acid ; it seems, however, that the 
Mormons lately succeeded in cultivating some of them. 

The currant is, as I mentioned above, a very wholesome fruit. 
Currant wine is not uncommon in England, and was already in 1771 
recommended by the Philanthropic Society, of Philadelphia, to the 
Americans who, particularly as far as the Dutch Pennsylvanians 
are concerned, were not deaf to their admonition ; it has nearly the 
taste of Madeira. 

The dried young leaves of the currant shrub in Siberia, and 
some European localities, successfully take the place of tea. 

For jellies, red currants are commonly taken, but white cur- 
rants are richer flavored, and less acid, and the black varieties are 
even the least acid, but rather musky. 

A. Varieties. 

Every good patriot should be proud of promoting the culture 
of our natives, which, notwithstanding their acidity, promise to be- 
come, by careful cultivation, as valuable as the foreign varieties. 

1. Natives. 

1. Sweet-fruited Missouri, a black variety, the good qualities ef 
which the Mormons of the Salt Lake region, boast a great deal of. 
Its berries are large, roundish, black, and its small bunches contain 
few berries. Sweet musky flavor. 



68 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

2. The Deseret, a native of the North-west, a strong and rapid 
grower, and very productive, was introduced by a Mormon, of Salt 
Lake Cily, Utah, about 1860. Fruit very large, round, dark violet, 
and agreeably flavored. It is the most promising native. 

3. The American Black, seems to be worthy of cultivation, as 
it naturally has a better flavor than its European name-sake. Fruit 
not large, roundish, black, and in small clusters. 

2. Foreign Varieties. 

1. The Red Dutch, perhaps the best of our currants, most cer- 
tainly superior to the Cherry and Versailles, is a vigorous grower 
and very productive. Berries large, deep red, rich and juicy, on 
long bunches. 

2. The Cherry, the largest red currant in cultivation, pays well 
in market. Berries very large, dark red, acid, and not rich. Leaves 
large, deep green, thick and tough. Bunches short. A very strong, 
stocky and productive grower. 

3. The Versailles, the best table currant, is not so acid as the 
Cherry, its nearest relative, and in this country of more recent date. 
Berries very large, dark red, and a little acid, on large bunches, up 
to two and one-half inches in circumference. Hails from France. 

4. The Victoria, a most excellent variety for home use, is very 
productive and also known by the name of the Houghton. Berries, 
very large, bright red, sprightly acid, and well flavored, on very 
long bunches, on which they hang long. Young branches, tender, 
although vigorous and productive. Late in September. 

5. The White Grape, the finest white currant grown, is very 
productive. Berries large, yellowish -white, transparent, juicy, sweet 
and rich, in middle-sized bunches. Foliage dark green. 

6. The Black Naples is a very good grower, and productive after 
odd years. Berries very large, black, sweet, but of a rank and 
musky scent. The largest in cultivation. 

B. Soil, Training and Pruning. 

The currant will grow in almost any soil, but naturally prefers 
deep, rich soil, and likes heavy loam better than light sand. It 
pays, at the same time, well for the labor and care it requires, by 
being very productive, and always contains a full crop every year. 
6,000 pounds have been harvested from an acre, and a net profit of 
$300 made. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE 69 

For field culture, the stool form, and for garden culture, the tree 
form is advisable. Manure of any kind will do ; weeding is not to 
be dispensed with ; mulching promotes the quantity and quality of 
crops, and the rows should be taken at about five feet distance, one 
from another, whilst the space between stools or plants ought to 
be four feet. 

1. In stools, allow suckers to spring up from single plants,, and 
establish symmetry by shortening, or partially removing, the suckers ; 
cut out all the old and diseased wood and crowding suckers. Six 
shoots in a stool are enough, the tips of which being pinched off, 
they will become more stocky, self-supporting and fruit-producing. 
Every fruiting cane should be removed after two or three crops. 
All the red and white vines are commonly trained in stools, as well 
in fields as in gardens, without ever being attacked by the currant 
borer. 

2. In trees, train only one shoot or cane erect, and cut it back 
at the commencement of the second season to twelve to eighteen 
inches from the ground ; now allowing three to six inch shoots sym- 
metrically growing around the stem, which are to be shortened to 
the same length in the third season, whilst the head of the bush 
remains open ; allow six to twelve shoots to grow in the third sea- 
son. Pinching, pruning, cutting out, &c, is the same as with the 
stools. Such plantations may last eight to ten years. All the blacks 
with their stroug growth and and large coarse stems, which don't 
dislike lesser pruning, and produce larger fruit on old stems than 
on young ones, particularly so if all weak shoots be cut out, are 
exceedingly fit for this method of training. 

Besides, currants like the sun, and have no objection to being 
planted near sheltering fences and walls ; but what they are always 
thankful for, is mulching between rows and stools, or trees. 

C. Diseases. 

Many diseases were imported with the plants from Europe. In 
general, these and the native diseases are the same as those of the 
plum and gooseberry, and they are originated by insects. 

1. The Currant Worm, whose parent is called the Magpie Moth* 
in England, was imported prior to 1840. This moth lays her eggs 
in June, is nankeen yellow, and has brown bands on either wing. 
The worm, which as a pupa, winters in the earth beneath the plum 
trees, or currant and gooseberry shrubs, is one inch long and yel- 



70 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

low, with small black dots. During the period of 1840 to 1860 it 
proved very destructive in the State of New York. Dust the shrubs 
with pulverized sulphur, or powdered white hellebore, or ashes. 

2. The American Currant Borer, a white cylindrical worm with 
black jaws and a brown head, but without feet, changes at the end 
of May to a black beetle ; previous to that time it resides, however, 
as a pupa in some stalk, cane or shoot, which was thereby diseased, 
of course. 

3. The European Currant Borer is the infant of a wasp-like 
moth, with small glossy wings, the tips of which are yellowish, and 
a black abdomen, and very common in the East. 

It is a general rule to cut out every stalk, cane, shoot, lateral, 
branch or limb of a shrub which was infected by such nefarious 
insects. 

D. Propagation. 

Nothing is easier than propagating currants. The following are 
the methods in vogue : 

1. Seedlings. The practice is the same as with strawberry seeds. 
They germinate at a very low temperature, and require a good 
deal of moisture. When one year old they may be transplanted 
two feet apart in rows. Not in use but for getting new varieties. 

2. Green Cuttings, two or three inches long, and cut off close 
to the stem, are reared under glass, or sometimes in the open ground 
when there is a little shade. 

3. Ripe Cuttings, six inches long, cut from ripe wood at the 
base of a bud, are laid early in fall, and covered with mulch for 
winter protection, or bundled up and kept in a cellar until next 
spring, when they are planted as early as possible. They are treated 
like other cuttings. 

4. Single Buds, the wood of which one-half inch long, are 
planted, with their buds up, either in pots or in boxes, or in the 
open ground, covered with sawdust or tan-bark, When raised in 
hot houses, a temperature of 50° is required for the 'first few weeks, 
and 75° to 80° afterwards. When well rooted, they are trans- 
planted into garden soil, together with the ball of earth clinging to 
their roots. 

5. Suckers. Cut off close to their base, as usual, but not common. 

6. Layers are bent down and covered with soil in the spring. 
In fall they have taken roots and are heeled in for the winter. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 71 

Remark. — No fruit retains its character longer when canned 
than the currant, and yet it is much neglected. Knox, in Pitts- 
burgh, keeps the largest and best collection of varieties. 



V. Gooseberry. 



The gooseberry, which is in season immediately after the cherry, 
grows wild in every one of the United States, the Canadas, New- 
foundland, Mexico, Peru, and all the South American countries 
sloping down the Andes. 

Our native varieties are naturally superior to the grossularias of 
Northern Europe, which don't thrive well in our soil, but with us 
gooseberry culture is decidedly behind the time. England, ranking 
highest, and renowned for her excellent gooseberry wines, which, a 
hundred years ago, was already manufactured by the wife of the 
Vicar of Wakefield, knew of eight cultivated varieties in 1640, and 
speaks at the present time of at least three hundred kinds under 
culture. There Lancashire is the leading county. The English 
climate is more suitable than ours, but more attention should be 
paid to this branch of small fruit culture, notwithstanding since it 
is a fact that an acre of American soil yields from two to four hun- 
dred bushels, at $1.50, and a pretty good harvest too. 

The greatest obstacle to cultivating foreign varieties is the enmity 
of the mildew, under which they suffer the more, the older they 
grow, and of which the natives are nearly exempt. There are sev- 
eral remedies, such as dusting with sulphur flour, after the setting 
of fruit, continued after its maturity, watering with strong soap-suds 
and potash water, or sprinkling salt upon spent hops aad tan-bark 
mulch ; but none is certain as to the result. Besides, the following 
insects are injurious to both the native and foreign varieties. 

1. The Currant Borer. 

2. The Gooseberry Bark Louse, smooth, brown, with yellow 
dots and a stripe of the same color. Close pruning and syringing 
with potash water are remedies. 

3. The Mealy Flata, sl small dark-blue, flour-winged fly, attacks 
the leaves and shoots late in the season, by sucking the juice out of 
them Dust the shrubs with ashes or lime. 



72 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

4. The Gooseberry Midge, a small bright-yellow maggot, destroys 
any berry in which it roosts ; in July it becomes a two winged mus- 
quito-like fly, of beeswax color. Destroy every infected berry. 

5. The Gooseberry Moth, a slender, greenish worm, one-half 
inch long, known since 1856, feeds upon the pulp of the berry, the 
skin of which it entirely empties. It generally appears when the 
berry is half grown. Sulphurizing is recommended. 

The gooseberry requires a rich, deep, moist soil, an open, airy 
situation, particularly on the cool north side of hills, because it can- 
not withstand extreme heat. Mulching the spaces between rows 
and plants, if possible, with tan-bark and spent hops, and old, well 
rotted manure, exclusively. Summer mulching will prove preven- 
tive of mildew also, even with foreign varieties, in some degree. 

Plant in spring, because the gooseberry ripens its wood late. 
Its propagation is similar to that of the currant, whose training and 
pruning is also that of the gooseberry. The single stem or tree 
system is the better one. Summer pruning should never be per- 
formed, and all pruning done between fall, when the wood is ripe, 
and spring, when the buds commence to swell. 

The following native varieties can be recommended, viz : 

1. Houghton's Seedling, originated with Abel Houghton, of 
Lynn, Mass., is a kind of "weeping" gooseberry plant, and very vig- 
orous. Fruit not large, oval, red, pale red, sweet and very good. 
It leaves are of a deep shining green. Being very prolific and a 
rapid grower, its canes are literally covered with fruit, and it is the 
best variety for our climate. 

2. The 3fountain Seedling, cultivated by the Shakers, at Leb- 
anon, Pa., is the largest native, and of very good quality. Berries 
large, oval, pale red, with tough and thick skin. Very productive. 

3. The Downing, the second best native variety, is very pro- 
ductive and hardy. Berries large, oval, greenish white, and of ex- 
cellent flavor. Leaves similar to the Houghtons 

4. The Cluster, a strong, slender grower, is also very produc- 
tive. Berries small, oval, sweet, juicy, and of a reddish purple 
color. 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 73 



VI. The Cranberry. 



The cranberry is a Northern plant, and a native of the septen- 
trional regions of Europe and America, where it grows wild in the 
lowlands, and on sandy soils ; to the latter class belongs the bush 
cranberry of the high mountains of Virginia and North Carolina, 
and the former the small cranberry of Northern Europe and the 
Northern States of America. Since centuries this fruit is produced 
in great abundance in Russia, Sweden and England. Captain 
Henry Hall, of Barnstable, Mass., was, perhaps, about 1812, the 
^first American grower. Since 1835, cranberry culture has became 
more extensive in New Eng.and, and at the present time thousands 
of acres of hitherto unimproved lowlands at the North, are covered 
with this kind of berries. 

Deep lowlands afford the best borders, because the roots of the 
cranberry like to be about three quarters of a year in contact with 
water, and wetness kills the cranberry-worms, one of which, a black 
headed fellow, one-half inch long, attacks the fruit, and the other, 
a red headed one of the same length, are injurious to the plants. 
As to propagation, which is commonly done in the season previous 
to planting, dig a ditch around the field for the upper draining of 
the surface water, line it with an embankment of four feet in height, 
burn the under wood on the ground, scatter the ashes about, make 
the field entirely level, and coat it with pure sand four to eight 
inches in thickness. If there be an abundance of peat or muck, a 
kind of manure almost as valuable as barnyard manure, part of it 
may be carted off. The above coating of pure sand will prevent not 
only the growing of weeds, but also the over luxuriance of the 
plants, as flooding the field for from eight to twenty-four hours does 
for the further ravages of pernicious worms. 

The best planting time is spring and early summer. To have 
the whole surface covered with vines being the object, set the plants 
in rows from one to two feet apart, or, if they are small, still nearer 
together. Plants may be procured either from wild beds where to 
be taken in sods, or from nurseries. 

During the growing season constant attention is required in re- 
moving all weeds and brushsprouts, and soaking the field in times 



74 TEN YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN 

of drouth. In fall, when freezing sets in, it is to be flooded from 
one to two feet high, this water protecting the ground irom freezing 
up, is drawn off in spring next, the later the better. 

Cranberries are excellent sell-propagators. They creep all over 
the ground, and if a man wants to promote their growth and taking 
root, he has only to throw a little earth upon them. Plants may be 
used whole or divided Even upright stems planted in spring are 
rooted next fall. Seedlings are desirable because of getting new va- 
rieties, we are desirably in want of, since all the cultivated kinds 
belong to the common American, whether their berries be purpleish, 
or greenish yellow, or white. For this purpose sow the seeds in drills 
free from weeds, mulch them with sand on low grounds, and with 
sawdust or tan-bark on dry soils, and transplant them when they 
are one or two years old. 

Upland culture is less profitable, and yet a horticulturalist cleared, 
some years ago, an annual profit of $400 from an acre of high 
ground. Every moist, loomy or sandy soil may be selected, and 
worked like a vegetable garden, manured with mulch or peat, and 
mulched with sawdust where this material can be had. The dis- 
tances between rows are taken at two feet, and between plants at 
one foot. Hoeing in the growing season should be done without any 
disturbance to the plants. The Bell Cranberry has been often 
recommended for upland culture. 



. The Huckleberry. 



There is an excellent fruit belonging to the Cranberry kindred 
which is yet being much neglected, and this without any reason, it 
being very productive, hardy and entirely thornless. It is the 
Huckleberry, a beautiful small fruit which is more firm than the 
Strawberry, Raspberry and Blackberry, and even better fit for 
transportation. Besides, there is no better summer refreshment 
than Huckleberries with cold, sweet milk, my favorite desert, which 
always reminds me of noble Virginia, on whose berry producing soil 
they are plentiful. 






GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 75 

Huckleberries bloom in May and June, and can be picked from 
July to September. There are different varietios of this low land 
plant which grows wild in a plurality of the United States, viz : 

1. The Highbush Huckleberry, black, on shrubs ten feet high, a 
low-lander, but sometimes also upon high soils, is the best variety, 
and is ripe in August and September. 

2. The Blue Huckleberry grows on the low lands from the New 
England States to Virginia. 

3. The Blue Dwarf Huckleberry, the earliest variety, boards on 
the dry sandy soils from Maryland northward. 

In conclusion, I feel obliged to state that I owe many of the 
foregoing remarks to The Small Fruit Culturist, by Andrew S. Ful- 
ler, of Ridgewood, Bergen County, N. J. (New York, 1867, 
Orange Judd & Co.) 



Conclusion. 



At last, I feel rather obliged to apologize before concluding. 
The task which I undertook waxed in its going on, and so did this 
book. Planned for about fifty pages avoirdupois, there are 
most likely as many more as there are days between Easter and 
Pentecost. This was not my design, I confess, but it is a fact. 
Therefore the public are certainly entitled to an apology of the 
writer who had not foreseen the waxiug dimensions of the subject. 
I now see it quite clear that an author cannot be at the same time, 
so to say, all-knowing and all-seeing, and since I am neither, thank 
God, and even nothing but a fallible human being, much unlike to 
the Pope, I feel stubbornly happy enough to suppose that I might 
deserve the pardon I beg in conclusion. Happy the man who be- 
lieves in the lieutenantcy of supposition when the captaincy of fact 
is vacant. 

But there is another serious incident or rather accident to meet 
with. Alas, it is this. The reader who was struck with the motto: 
"I mean business, not much talk," will most probably make up his 
mind to accuse me of contradiction, since projecting and carrying 
out the plan of this book are rather discordant. I acknowledge 
the fact unhesitatingly, but as old Mrs. Means says in Edward Eg- 
gleston's witty : "Hoosier school-master," when she puffed away be- 
tween hours, "Git a plenty while you're a gittin'," so say I. I 



GRAPE AND SMALL FRUIT CULTURE. 77 

thought, some small or big talk, as you like, on national economy 
and "sich" matters would do no harm, even if some morose husband 
who expected to make a bargain when he bought this volume, 
should feel inclined to indulge in a sound scold at my expense for 
his money which is now my own or rather the publishers. 

"I got it in," says the lawyer by himself when His Honor re- 
minds him of having said something to which, according to the 
blindness of justice and law, the ears of the gentlemen ought to be 
deaf. 

And so, gentle reader, I will no longer take up your time which 
is money, you know ; the poor defendant repents of his infallible 
sins, and I only ask for him your merciful recommendation to the 
mercy of the court. 

All is well that ends well. 



J. M.THORBURN &, CO.'S 

fed WfiPfebfeiufe* 

15 JOHN ST., - NEW YORK. 

f IN ADDITION TO 

A full line of Vegetable and Flower Seeds, 

WE KEEP CONSTANTLY ON HAND 

FRUIT AND TREE SEELS OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS. 

Lake View Wine Turn, 

OF 131 ACRES, 

BAST OLEVELAHD, OHIO. 

DEA 

jiti?e flip 



DEALEE IN ALL 




CATAWBA, SWEET CATAWBA, CONCORD, IONA, DELAWARE, 

IVES' SEEDLING, NORTON'S VIRGINIA, BLACKBERRY, 

STRAWBERRY, GOOSEBERRY, CURRANT, 

RASPBERRY, ELDERBERRY, 

ALSO, 

watxvb w©m^ aw© iniiT. 

s^- For Salo by the Barrel, Keg or Case.~« 

J". !F. PRB7BR, 

East Cleveland, Ohio. 

To Fnaife Qro^rors. 

Having been engaged in the 

Commission Business in this city for nine years, 

making 

FRUITS A SPECIALTY IN THEIR SEASON, 
We can assure growers of our ability to, at all times, make as PROMPT 
SALES, and to realize as HIGH PRICES, as the market will warrant. 

CO^SIGKKTIMIIEl^TS SOLICITED. 

XX MARTIN 8z CO., 

Commission Merchants for the sale of Fruits, Grain and Produce, 
No. 24 MERWIN ST., CLEVELAND, O. 



TE3ST TEABS : 



PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE 



IN 




CANTON, OHIO: 

BASCOM & SAXTON, PRINTERS. 

1875. 



ZKTJO-O PRETBB, 



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